Trying to learn the physics of BH's

[Don Stokes]

If I hit within 3-4" at 26 yards, I'm happy!

[GMMAT]

OY...

I'm curious....so you're saying paper tuning at those distances isn't accurate (or...."might" not be)?

I REALLY appreciate the help.

[GMMAT]

Don....

I'm NO crack shot.  But the "low" results are consistant.  Not left/right/high (and "off", that amount).  They're all that much low.

[Old York]

I'm suggesting to leave go of the paper tuning for now, and try the nock-set tweaking, see what  you  come up with, & learn from it. I don't think any one tuning method is an absolute.


BTW, if you want to  really  drive yourself barmy, build 3 paper tuning frames, set the 1st one up at 15', 2nd at 17', 3rd at 19', and see if all three show a bullet hole  

[Widowbender]

Jeff, once you get a good tear at ten feet you need to move back at shoot from other distances. The arrow could be in a recovery position at ten feet. As an arrow wobbles up and down it could be hitting the paper at that moment in time when it is straight. If I remember right you moved your nocking point when you went from bareshafting to paper?

[JimB]

The whole point of tuning is to get your broadheads to impact exactly where your field points do.Yours are very close but at that distance,not quite.

For my setup,moving the nocking point 1/16",moved the position of the group 8" at 20 yds.I don't know how your bow would react but I think I would try 1/32" or less.

Longer distances and broadheads show minor discrepencies in tune and it sounds like that is what you are seeing.Still,very,very close.

[George D. Stout]

The ultimate broadhead dynamic is for it to hit the animal while flying perfectly....with all of the energy focused on the tip of that arrow.  If that happens, you don't need to worry about Newton's Theory, or the price of TastyKakes in British Columbia.  Put the broadheads on...get them flying "perfectly", and forget about analyizing so much.

I also have an analytical mind, Jeff, but mostly I'm trying to figure out if I want to Barbeque those back straps, or fry em' up.  8^).

[GMMAT]

Let me ask ONE more question.....lol.

Bare shafting is a good start.  Paper tuning is a way to sort of check your own work (from bare shafting).

If I move my nocking point down a hair....is the final test (and I suppose the ONLY one that matters) simply my POI (BH v. FP)?  

I'll sling a few this afternoon.....and report my findings.

Thanks, guys.

Like I've stated....it's darned close.  I'm confident of that.

[khardrunner]

Nothin wrong with Newton's theories either.

Like I said originally, it's highly unlikely that there is enough drag created by a BH over an FP  to see any difference at all, especially at 26 yds.

More likely you are dealing with:
1) different tuning dynamics
2) different gap due to BH length
3) different sight pic
4) pulling the bow differently (or other form issue)
5) something in your head that is causing you to shoot low

The physics of it just won't work out to 3+ inches low. There's nothing wrong with being curious, just so long as it doesn't effect your shooting. Good luck and happy hunting!

[GMMAT]

I switched to 100% BH's, yesterday.  

I'm "good".  I appreciate everyone's indulgence (sincerely).

[straitera]

Confidence is essential. Shoot BH's until you're certain they're hitting where you look. Go with it.