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paper tunning

Started by babs, November 02, 2008, 12:21:00 AM

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babs

I was paper tunning my long bow this past week and was getting a bad tear. i am shooting a 62" longbow 48# @28 inch. i am a right handed shooter and I shoot off the shelf. I am using gold tip traditional arrows 35/55 with 100 grain brass inserts and used 100, 125, and 145 grain field points. I had a hole in target with the fletching and than had a bad tear to the bottom right of the entrance hole, about three inches long. I left the shafts full length, do I start cutting shafts kind of stuck, newbie needs your help
Border tempest hex 7
Border tempest 25 hex 6.5
L.H.A Hayestani Combo 47lbs @28
Bob Lee camo dipped 47lbs @ 29
Bob Lee Heavyweight 50@29
Stewart 3pc Slammer. 45@28
Hoyt GMX & RCX 1000 limbs

ozy clint

sounds like the nock point needs to go up and the shafts are to stiff. try a heavier point. are you canting your bow? paper tune with a vertical bow. firstly try bareshaft tuning them and gain as good flight as you can. if anything have them slightly weak. fletch one up but move the feathers about 3/4" more toward the point end than you normally do. this gives you some room for trimming later if you need to. then do your paper tune. hope this helps. let us know.
Thick fog slowly lifts
Jagged peaks and hairy beast
Food for soul and body.

Border black douglas recurve 70# and 58# HEX6 BB2 limbs

babs

ok sounds good I'll try moving the nocking point first. And I was canting my bow, so I guess I have to shoot vertical. Thanks for the info I'll let you know how it goes. Do I have the wrong spined arrows? if I cut the shafts doesnt that make them stiff?
Border tempest hex 7
Border tempest 25 hex 6.5
L.H.A Hayestani Combo 47lbs @28
Bob Lee camo dipped 47lbs @ 29
Bob Lee Heavyweight 50@29
Stewart 3pc Slammer. 45@28
Hoyt GMX & RCX 1000 limbs

BRONZ

I shooting almost the same setup:
45# Chek-Mate Falcon
GT 3555 29" from insert to end of nock
50 gr brass inserts
125 tips

I agree with ozy:  1. get vertical  2. move your nock point up (typically  your nock point with end up a little above horizontal)  3. your arrows are a little stiff  4. you want them to bareshaft a little weak, so when you add feathers, cresting, etc.  they'll stiffen to "just right".  

Don't cut your arrows, that stiffens them.  Increase your point weight.  A nock left tear = weak shaft.  A nock right tear = stiff shaft.

Good luck!
"He trains my hands for battle; my arms can bend a bow of bronze."
2 Samuel 22:35

Wheatland Christian Bowhunters--Chairman

wtpops

If i am reading right you have a point entry hole and then a high and left tear to the fletch, You decribed it in reverse.

also if im no mistaken that means a high nock point and a week arrow spine.

From what i have gathered from my thinking of your post you need to lower your nock point and stiffen arrow spine. do one at a time of corse
TGMM Family of the Bow
"OVERTHINKING" The art of creating problems that weren't even there!

BRONZ

I guess I'm confused.  babs, where is your nock in relation to the point when it tears the paper?  left,right,high,low
"He trains my hands for battle; my arms can bend a bow of bronze."
2 Samuel 22:35

Wheatland Christian Bowhunters--Chairman

**DONOTDELETE**

how far are you from the paper? I start out at 10 yards, then move back every 5 yards till I get to 20 yards. I then go back to 10 yards then move 5 yard closer to the paper.. Now look at all the papers ( or marks of the arrow ) and see how they hit the paper. My arrows are great from 5 to 20 yards. 5 Yards being when the arrow comes out of paradox. Great for shooting in to holes/lanes.

Kingstaken

Before moving anything, do you cant the bow when you shoot or hold the bow straight up and down (12 and 6 o'clock)?

If you cant as most do, you must paper tune holding the bow at 12 and 6 oc'lock or you WILL get false tear readings.
"JUST NOCK, DRAW AND BE RELEASED"


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