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why so stiff ?

Started by onecamman, August 08, 2008, 07:13:00 PM

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onecamman

HI, I'm shooting a striker slapstick 46# @ 26", and the only shaft I can get to tune is 2216 or stiffer, and the chart calls for alot weaker 1916 what gives i'm confused.  :confused:  Roger

Stringdancer

What tuning method are you using?  
Is the shelf cut to, or past center?
Radical R/D bow?
String type?  
Your draw, and arrow lenght, and tip weight?

Mike
" FEAR THE MAN WITH ONE BOW "

stickpig

Try an 1816.....at your draw length this should be a good place to start.  2216's? At your weight and draw for those shafts to fly well would be very surprising!
Pig

aromakr

Roger:
As Stringdancer said, how the shelf is cut will determine the success of the 2216's. I would guess your bow is cut 3/16" past center, you however did not say how long your arrows are. with a bow that's cut past center once you arrive at your minimum spine need you can go way over spine with great success. I have one client shooting a 74#@26" bow cut 3/16 past center shooting arrows that spine 130#@28" they fly like darts.
Bob
Man must "believe" in something!  I "believe" I will go hunting-----

Doc Nock

Yup. Center Cut makes a huge difference in arrow spine needed.  Taking a long time for folks to grasp that. I found friends' longbows often weren't cut to center, but many more recurves seem to be all the time. There are many curves cut to center or past. Morrison cuts his recurve risers 3/16 PAST center.

My 48# limbs on his Cheyene require me to shoot 80# arrows. Of course, I load them up some to get my desired 600Grains, and now w/ carbon, the EFOC allows me to use smaller, lower, quieter feathers, too!

Blac Widow, I learned through a friend, was also cut well past center. Amazing how that center cut on a riser seems to make a bigger difference in what spine arrow is needed than does draw weight!
The words "Child" and "terminal illness" should never share the same sentence! Those who care-do, others question!

TGMM Family of the Bow

Sasquatch LB


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