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Selfbow Help, Should I heat the limb?

Started by bigcountry, May 23, 2008, 11:15:00 PM

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George Tsoukalas

I forgot to mention this. With character staves, handy thing is to leave the nocks a good inch wide or so and leave the handle full width. You can shape the handle to track the string better that way. You can also cut the nocks on the offending side deeper so in that picture you can cut the nocks on your bow hand side deeper on bring the string over a bit. Heating is always a last resort for me. Jawge

Jacko

I have several selfbows that have the same issue you have Big Country and they shoot really well


One of my bows has the string as far off centre as yours and I found it more forgiving of arrow spine due to being so far outside of centre . I do get my arm slapped due to my bows liking a lower brace but with a medium weight leather armguard I do not feel it and get real good life out of my serving .

With the other way around you simply need lighter spined arrows and it will be fine if the tiller on the bow allows or it may need a minor touch up .

Your grip is another thing that is completly differant with selfbows I have found and it may be a factor in string slap

regards Jacko
"To my deep mortification my father once said to me, 'You care for nothing but shooting, dogs and rat- catching, and you will be a disgrace to yourself and all your family.'"

-Charles Darwin

bigcountry

Thanks guys, I think I am going to try to heat it, and try to correct.  For nothing more than gettin the experience of doing it.  Just not sure if I want to heat the tip or try to steam the handle.  I know I might mess it up.  But I plan on doing this alot.


Eric as always, thanks for taking the time to post detailed pictures

Eric Krewson

I don't use steam anymore. You can heat the handle easily as well with a heat gun.

I would bend the tip over first. You only need to heat about a 4" section right where the dogleg is. After you get the limb moving to the side and get it clamped or wedged in place go back and heat the area back up. Let cool for about 1/2 hour and check your progress, repeat if necessary . Keep your heat gun moving all the time, back to belly and side to side or you will scorch the wood.

I always leave a penciled center line on my bows to give me a reference for straightening. It is the last thing I take off before I apply a finish.

Steve Kendrot

Eric, It looked like your billets were spilced in the handle. Is heat safe with Urac? can BBOs be treated with heat after the glue up without delamination?

bigcountry

Hey Eric, I was told to saturate with mineral oil.  Any reason why?  They said it kept it from scorching the wood.

I will post progress.

Eric Krewson

I have heated a urac splice a bunch of times with out problems. I have also moved the tips on a urac glued BBO with heat.

Any oil will prevent scorching and distribute the heat evenly. I don't use any oil myself, use caution with my heat gun instead.

I use a reflector made from a piece of aluminum angle on my initial heating. It speeds the heating time and heats the whole area for correcting at one time.


shamus



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