Nock and Point Tapering Douglas Fir

[nek4me]

On the Surewood website they mention the nature of Douglas Fir isn't compatible with use of razor blade tapering tools. Has anyone experienced any issues?

Visually compared to POC the Fir shafts have more pronounced grain and are a more dense wood but is hand tapering really a problem?

They offer cutting and tapering which may be ok once specs are established but would limited shaft length flexibility for testing.

Thinking about switching to wood and like the weight and durability of Fir but want to be able to cut and taper for nocks and points with existing hand tool as needed.

[IndaTimber]

I've used the hand tool with no problems. I haven't done many but the ones I did turned out fine.

[snag]

You possibly could chip chunks of wood off if you use the pencil sharpener type of tapering tool. If you attempt it make sure the blade is new and sharp. Then go slow and easy. It really is best to use a sandpaper grinding wheel...or just have them do it.

[Roadkill]

The plastic ones turned by hand chip and shred.  Someone makes an attachment to take. True taper to a drill. That works, or have them do it. Takes no effort to devise a tapering jig for your belt sander either

[M60gunner]

I just tapered 2 doz. fir arrows. I use the attachments mentioned above. I did put in a new blade which made the job a 5 minute experience. I think the speed of the drill motor helps. But doing it without the attachments is a mess. The fir chips off just like mentioned.

[IndaTimber]

I'd go with the experts on this one. While I didn't chip any of the surewoods I tapered it is obviously an issue. I did have a brand new tool with a new blade, maybe that is why.  Best of luck.

[slowbowjoe]

I have tapered several dozen sets of Surewoods with hand held tools, and still do (I'd like a sanding rig, but can't afford one).

I was gouging some early on, but do fine now. It does require a decent blade, and a light, gradual touch, as others are advising. Don't push the shaft in to the tool so much as let it cut at it's own pace, feeding the shaft gently.

Also, I was having trouble with the (original) TruCenter tool-the blade is just not that good. I have both the "Traditional" and a Bearpaw pencil sharpener type: both cut cleaner, so I do the point tapers with one or both of those - then just use the TruCenter to finish, as I get the full 1" taper depth with that. Nocks, the pencil sharpeners work just fine.

What sharpener are you using?

[Overspined]

Yeah the hand held sharpeners work but aren't great.

I made a grinder plate jov that worked, but have lost the sanding disc that used.  Since then, I have decided that the people from Surewood and Wapiti do such a nice job that I have a hard time justifying the time or the money to buy any tooling myself.

[slowbowjoe]

Pavan, good points. The OP is still figuring out the length/spine he needs, hence his wanting flexibility in putting his set together.

NEK, I'm not too far from you (when you're in VT), let me know if I can help you out at all. I'm in Montgomery.

[Stumpkiller]

I use a Dean Torges Bowyer's Edge to taper mine.  It's a small scraper as opposed to a razor plane.  Works well on the D. fir.  I smooth it up with a sanding block.

I taper the last 12" of mine down to 5/16"

 

 

[nek4me]

Slowbow,

Sent you PM.