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Tuning question?

Started by Bar_BN, January 26, 2016, 11:09:00 PM

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Bar_BN

Ok ive been studying n watching u tube, yea i kno but u use the resources u have lol , ges thats why im coming back to u guys with my ? Its about bare shaft tuning , ok if i order my kit from like 3rivers , when i get them should i cut them down to my arrow length needed before i start figuring for spine cuz i got to thinkin if i get a arrow and head combination set for good spine then i cut them down to my needed length then that will blow it all outta poportion wouldnt it? I have a 26 inch draw im hoping i can shoot a shorter arrow with heavy head or i may be way off with my thought on that as well , i live in Conroe , Tx  lots of bow shops around but none really for traditional so i hope the question are ok i prolly be askin alot more before im done i wanna learn everything i can
"Its their world out there, we're the tourist " " they sacrifise for our family , that deserves great respect n honor !!! " "Move like a tree, smell like the dirt, and sound like an acorn."

Bar_BN

Probly gonna order the carbon goldtip trad only kit
"Its their world out there, we're the tourist " " they sacrifise for our family , that deserves great respect n honor !!! " "Move like a tree, smell like the dirt, and sound like an acorn."

BAK

You ask an interesting question.

Some of us prefer all arrows we shoot to be the same length.  It allows for a consistent sight picture, either focused, or peripheral.

Others prefer to tune their shafts by cutting them.

You have to decide which way you want to adopt and go from there.
"May your blood trails be short and your drags all down hill."

Start long, and let tuning tell you how long the finished length should be. It does not matter if there is a bit of extra shaft hangout the front of your bow, as long as it is tuned well.

Bisch

JRY309

Carbon arrows are more sensitive to length then weight then weight upfront.They don't come in as  many different spines as wood or aluminum.They have their basic static spine and you achieve the dynamic spine you need by shooting,triming and tuning.They recover much faster from the paradox then other types of arrows.Depending on the bow and how the riser is cut and length of the arrow adding more weight upfront does not always weaken the spine for tuning.You can get false readings on bareshafting.I start long and trim and tune from there and let my tuning determine the arrow length with carbon arrows.Once you cut them you can't put back on what you cut off.There are a lot of factors involved and different methods.

AZ_Longbow

Get a fieldpoints test kit as well, it will make your life alot easier.
"There's only two things an arrow wants to do, it wants to fly and it wants to hit its target. It's in its very nature. Don't over think it."

mgf

Why cut if you don't need to?

I only cut if I need a stiffer dynamic spine.

Since I use the tip of the arrow for aiming and my primary interest is hunting, I prefer a longer arrow. A longer arrow reduces my "point-on" distance some.

olddogrib

Personally, I would leave my test kit arrows uncut.  Get a wide selection of heads and insert weights and figure out what the bow wants that way. When you've determined what you need, if it's a combination you can't live with then cutting is always an option...but let it be the last resort. I always thought excess arrow would bother me, but it  doesn't.  With the aiming style I use now, it's an advantage if anything.  I never understand archers who've made up their minds...I want to shoot this arrow, at this length, with this point weight.  They're painting themselves into a corner..it doesn't work that way.
"Wakan Tanka
Wakan Tanka
Pilamaya
Wichoni heh"

Bar_BN

Thanx alot guys what your sayin makes alotta sense, i dont use the arrow point to aim tho, i try my best to forget its there, thats mainly why i was thinkin they need to be cut , but listening to yalls remarks it makes sense that if its not tuned rt then aiming is out of the question anyway , i had a predetermined setup in mind  lil creep longbow 55#@28" my draw is 26 so hoping itll be rt around 50#@26"  slide on selway quiver (6arrow) fast flite string tied on nock gold tip arrows with 175 grn simmons interceptor brdhds wanted to shoot light arrow for speed but heavier head for kenetic energy n penetration but i ges im still letting the compound archer in me influence my thought path i ges i need to change my thinking some . Any other ideas for my setup wud be greatly appeciated  i always take in what everyone say then add mine and put it all together a make a play book.
"Its their world out there, we're the tourist " " they sacrifise for our family , that deserves great respect n honor !!! " "Move like a tree, smell like the dirt, and sound like an acorn."

AZ_Longbow

be sure to hit the minimum GPP the bow maker recommends. and take your time to get it set. every bow likes to eat something different.
there are several combos that will shoot great with ever bow, so keep a notebook with your brace height, knock point, string type, where you place your string silencers. your arrow types, length of arrow, grains of arrow, points weights. all the little bit of info that you use. after a while you'll have several great arrow recipes.
I personal use one arrow for everything now. I target shoot with what I hunt with. to me there's no better way to really learn your bow than play with arrow tune. just have fun and take your time.
"There's only two things an arrow wants to do, it wants to fly and it wants to hit its target. It's in its very nature. Don't over think it."

katman

Get the test kit, put on your 175 point and see which full length shaft is the close to tune. If your weak shorten it. If you want it shorter drop down a spine and start shortening while tuning. Don't forget you can tweak dynamic spine with side plate thickness.
shoot straight shoot often

AZ_Longbow

also feathers and wraps, any weight on the back end will stiffen the shaft a bit to.
"There's only two things an arrow wants to do, it wants to fly and it wants to hit its target. It's in its very nature. Don't over think it."

oldgoat

X2 what olddogrib said, after getting somewhat close in my process by cutting no more than a 1/4" at a time when I get close just the width of the blade changes. Given I do my part on release which is sometimes.
TGMM Family of the Bow


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