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Grizzlies!

Started by Dan_da_man, October 15, 2007, 12:26:00 AM

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0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Dan_da_man

Ok, so I 've been playing with mt Grizzly 160's and am very impressed with the edge I can get on the back 1/3rd of the blade but can't seem to get the front sharp enough to where it needs to be to hunt with.I was hopeing that you fella's had a trick or two to get the front sharp.Any help is always appreciated.

Thanks Gang
Danny
"Just hit the next one twice as hard"

MW

I was having the same problem with 190's.

After cutting my finger open things got personal.  I wanted a different angle so it put it on a lanski sharpener and took the edge to 30 degrees but held it in the holder at the tail.  This produced a sharper angle at the nose.  Rather than just taking the bur off of the back I took a couple of swipes at 30 degrees as well.


Hope this helps.  There has got to be a better way.
They are shaving now.
<---TGMM Family of the bow---<<<<

SlowBowinMO

Most likely you're needing a little more attention on the back, flat side.

I take off the burr and a little paint on the back, the rear always comes in first, I think you're not quite there yet is all.

This is what I'm talking about:

http://www.braveheartarchery.us/new_page_10.htm

Here's a great link also:

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000053

Keep at it, once you get them you'll find Grizzlies very easy, and a fantastic broadhead.
"Down-Log Blind at Misty River"

Allan Hundeby

For aluminum or carbon arrows, what weight of steel or aluminum adapter is best, and will Ferr-L-Tite work?  Or is another adheshive better?
Bow:
62" Bob Lee TD Hunter Recurve: 51# @ 28", Braceheight: 7 3/4"

Bowstring:
Chad Weaver 58.5'' 10-strand DF97 (padded loops); 0.19 HALO serving; rubber silencers & brush buttons

Bjorn

Just like SlowBow says the rear comes in before the heavier front-a few more strokes of whatever method you are using and you will be there. I file with a large mill file and then redi-edge the rest of the way. I think most people stop filing too soon. You can get them to the shaving stage just by filing alone.

SlowBowinMO

Ferrule Tite or Epoxy will work fine.  Be sure to clean adapters and inside of heads with Iso alcohol first.

Allan, there is no "best" for everyone, but I would strive for some balance for best results IMO.  I would use a medium weight adapter and a medium weight broadhead over an extra heavy adapter and lightweight broadhead for example.  I'd also not likely use a El Grande 190 and a 25 grain adapter either, I'd be more inclined to use a 150 and a 75 grain adapter if you get my meaning.
"Down-Log Blind at Misty River"

Dan_da_man

Well... I got one to shave hair tonight and now on to the honing phase. If anyone else has new tricks for them the new pack of  160's should be here tomorrow. Thank you for all of your help.
"Just hit the next one twice as hard"

Dan_da_man

My new pack of Grizzlies got here today and have already put a dent on the sharpening.
 I have a quick question do you hone/strop them or leave them the way they are (kind of rough but sharp) to  work kind of like serraded edges.

Thank you
"Just hit the next one twice as hard"

Sharpster

Dr. Ashby says hone and strop. That's all the advice I need.

-Sharps
"We choose to do these things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard" — JFK

www.kmesharp.com

TGMM Family of the Bow


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