Tree falls = Riser wood right?

[KentuckyTJ]

My uncle had a Cherry tree fall this winter and I offered to clean it up for him. As my saw made the first cut I took a moment to check out the grain. It had some really cool looking thin black squiggly lines in it. Looks like it has some potential and I think it will look really cool when cut length wise. So why not use some in a riser? I called Bill Dunn and he told me to paint the ends of the logs I wanted to use and put them away out of the rain and sun. Painted up three logs as he said he would like some also.

What do you think and how long will it take it to be dry enough?

[bretto]

Not sure how long it will take to dry.    

bretto

[bamboo]

spalted cherry--yours looks nice too-I hope you kept some longer pieces!

[Jayrod]

Very nice TOM but mines BTUS in my outdoor wood furnace!!

[M60gunner]

I did a search on drying lumber. I found a book put out by Dept of Ag. Boy oh boy I did not know there was so much to drying wood. In chapter 4 I found an answer, at least one year min more if in a humid climate. Your looking for 20% or less moisture content. If you leave you wood in logs maybe years. I would split and stack as the book says.

[KentuckyTJ]

Wonder how you test the moisture content?

[kbetts]

You can buy moisture meters (not sure the name of them) from 3 rivers I believe.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

You need to quarter saw the wood at about .25" thicker than you want it S4S once it's dry. you should cut it 4" longer when it's green than the usable length you want too. The stuff ckecks and splits at the end rather easily when drying.

once you get it rough cut over sized. (Do this while its green.) Paint the ends with any kind of paint you have handy. Then stack it up with 1/4" thick spacers at 12" apart and stack it in a dry area like a shed or garage, and put a fan on it blowing air through the stack. The air flow is important. 8/4 cherry will air dry to about 15%-20 MC level in 4-6 months.  4/4 material will dry quicker. Once you get it below 20% it will still warp easily if it isn't stacked flat. but most of the checking is done brom green to 20% MC level

If you are only drying a few boards put weight on it or use banding. The top few boards will alway warp up on you..... Do NOT use any heat or try to force dry this stuff. The stuff will crack up and twist on you really bad. btw... air flow dries it faster than heat will anyway..... If you can't put a fan on it, it will ofte mold up on you in the winter months. be prepared for some staining. Some guys use a chemical treating to keep it from molding....

Google "Drying wood" some time... There is a lot to it.... but i've given you the basis here.  Kirk

[KentuckyTJ]

Thanks Kirk.

[wood carver 2]

Be careful of spalted wood in risers. It's generally weaker than the same type of wood that is not spalted. It might be a good idea to use a strengthening method such as an I beam to be on the safe side.
Dave.