Refinishing Question

HighTecRedNeck · August 03, 2013, 06:23:00 PM

I am getting ready to refinish an old Bear Kodiak.

I have done a lot of furniture, cabinets etc but I have some questions about the glass and the correct clearcoat to use.

I have used the spar urethane quit a bit. Will that be ok to use ? I have a good VLP gun but I want to use the best thing possible.

Bjorn · August 03, 2013, 07:43:00 PM

The vintage Kodiaks were finished with Fullerplast which is available in many states. Spar UT will work too.
Post pics when done!

HighTecRedNeck · August 03, 2013, 08:55:00 PM

Fullerplast ? I know that name, from where I can't remember

TonyW · August 04, 2013, 01:23:00 PM

Remember Leo Fender's 1960s Stratocaster's? Check your local guitar guru about this topic as well:

Fact:
The two-part catalyzed coating named "Fullerplast" (Fuller for Fuller O'Brien, the products creator, and plast for the obvious PLASTIC"), solved all of Fenders finishing problems; encasing the deep wood pores in a self-hardening plastic that wrapped the body in a rock-hard solid coffin. In some cases we have found it to be as thick as a.060 string. Yes, all of the wood moisture and characteristics are sealed in a virtual time-capsule, only to be vented from the body through screw holes and paint fractures. Share this info and be the hit of your next guitar gathering!

Fred Bear used Fullerplast on his later bows, but it is a bear to remove and replace.
The doc says Birchwood & Casey tru oil gun stock finish is great stuff and works really good on wood and fiberglass both. Easy to apply, and easy to touch up. Thunderbird is a good Fullerplast alternative epoxy finish if you have the equipment raring to go.

HighTecRedNeck · August 04, 2013, 01:31:00 PM

Thank you Tony !! I have been racking my feeble brain. As a kid I worked in a guitar shop on the electronics rebuilding the pickup's winding by hand. The minute I read your post I remembered the smell of it. I didn't smell like regular resin.

I will have to do some reading to figure out the cure times and what effect the humidity here in FL will have on it. I may have to build a drying box with some lights in it to keep the humidity out while curing if I go that route which if I can find the stuff I will. I want it back to pure factory if I can

TonyW · August 04, 2013, 02:23:00 PM

Post some pictures! Photobucket is easy, or email them. I read about your Whisperstick - what is the year and model of your Bear Kodiak?

HighTecRedNeck · August 04, 2013, 03:58:00 PM

It is a 1970 Kodiak Hunter I picked up at a garage sale on Thursday along with a couple other bows the guy had.( Not even sure what they are yet, looks like a Pearson and the other I am clueless ) He said they were his fathers who passed away a few years ago. Even with the nasty camo job I could tell it was in nice shape under that spray paint. The fullerplast is done as are the logo's so I will have to find some.

I plan to do the full spread from start to finish as I promised the guy they were in good hands and I would send him pictures. he said he remember them on a rack when he was a little one.

HighTecRedNeck · August 04, 2013, 04:31:00 PM

Sorry, I forgot to add, it is a Mojostik with the hinge. but at 51# and being a " Noob" to trad it is a bit to much for me right now so I bought a Pearson Cougar in 40# to work my fingers out..lol

What a person can pull with a release and compound is TOTALY different but I would have bought the Mojo anyway. It is just so simple pretty