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Arrow building

Started by nate potate, January 23, 2013, 09:08:00 PM

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nate potate

Hey gang,

I just started making my own arrows which is going fine, but I have a problem, I can't seem to keep paint from running.... Does anyone have help for me? Do I clear coat them then crest or do I crest first ? All my paint keeps running. Please help!!

Drewster

What shaft material are you using......wood, carbon, aluminum?  What kind of paint?  Are you spraying or dipping?  Need a little more info.
Carolina Traditional Archers
North Carolina Bowhunters Association

snag

You have a compatibility problem with your sealer and the cresting paint. What are you using? Sounds like the sealer is too "hot" for the cresting paint and is dissolving it.
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

nate potate

I'm using minwax sealer oil based. And restore model paint on cedar shafts

nate potate

Testor model paint, brushed

D

If your dip clearing then the gasket lacquer is too hot for the testor model paint.  I had that problem.  I switched to a simple waterbased paint kit from hobby lobby and never had anymore problems.  

Before I got the waterbased paint to keep from recresting 11 arrows I sprayed the crested parts with a few coats of minwax lacquer then dipped them.

Knawbone

Spray paint modest coats with time to dry between coats. Then crest and let cure. Brush on Kinser ultimate polyurethane {water based },let dry between coats. I use a foam brush to apply coats of finish and use 4 coats. If you can find this poly it is by far the best I have used. Tough as nails and fletchings stay put even with tape.
HHA 5 lam Cheetah 65" 48@26
HHA W Special 66" 52@26
HHA W Special 68" 56@28
GN Bushbow 64" 56@29
21st Street Chinook 64" 58@28
Kota Prarie Nomad 60" 47@24
You can do a lot of things when you have too W S Butler My Grandfather

nate potate

Thanks guys ill let you know how they turn out !

cedar

I use water based poly over testors.  Let the testors dry for 48 hrs before you apply sealer.


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