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arrow building

Started by bowmaster12, April 22, 2011, 06:02:00 PM

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bowmaster12

please bear with a new be arrow builder i just got some surewood shafts i was wondering do i cut and tapper now do i straighten or do i stain the shafts first then cut to length then tapper and lastely straighten? thanks

NoCams

Everyone does them a little different bud. I stain, cap dip, crest, clear coat, straighten, then nock taper. I then bareshaft test 3-4 shafts till I arrive at the length that they wind up ever so slightly weak. I then cut and point taper the rest of the dozen. When you add feathers they will be dead on. Just make sure you do your tapers right after you straighten so they are concentric and round with the shaft. Nock taper especially. Nock tapers need to be as accurate as possible. Some taper the raw bare shafts as soon as they get them and make sure they are straight. Whatever works best for you.
TGMM  Family of the Bow
"Failure to plan is planned failure"

ridge runner

I'm sure everybodys different, but i straighten first , then cut to length , then check and straighten again before i taper, then check and straighten again before i stain and then do it again before I seal them, it only takes a minute to straighen before each step and the results are worth it. you want your tapers to be as straight as possible.  have fun

moebow

My rule of thumb is to straighten EVERY time I pick a shaft up.  Once you have put a finish/sealer on them they are more and more difficult to get to take the correction.  Once finished you will or probably will never have to fuss with them again.
11 H Hill bows
3 David Miller bows
4 James Berry bows
USA Archery, Level 4 NTS Coach

Are you willing to give up what you are; to become what you could be?

swampthing

If they are not straight, I'd straighten them first, then seal'em. Point/nock taper whenever convinent, provided you don't put too many coats on the shaft and they still fit in the taper tool.

bowmaster12

another dumb question can  just use a hand saw to cut to length or is there a much better method

Friends call me Pac

QuoteOriginally posted by bowmaster12:
another dumb question can  just use a hand saw to cut to length or is there a much better method
I snuck a steak knife from the wife's kitchen and use it to cut shafts.  I mark where to cut then using the knife I cut a ring around the shaft.  After making a nice groove I easily snap the unwanted potion off.  Got to make sure to cut deep enough so you get a clean break though.
USAF Retired '85-'05

An old hand me down recurve sparked the fire, Trad Gang fanned the flames.  There is no stopping now.  Burn baby burn!

Friends call me Pac

save the pieces you cut to stir stain and sealer with.
USAF Retired '85-'05

An old hand me down recurve sparked the fire, Trad Gang fanned the flames.  There is no stopping now.  Burn baby burn!

Rob DiStefano

check the 'how to - resources' forum!
IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

snag

Jesse, you can look them over and do a little straightening.
1)Nock taper and stain them. If you not going to bare shaft tune them you can just cut to your length and end taper also...then stain.
2)Check for straightness again
3)Crown dip
4)Crest
5)Check for straightness before sealing
6)Seal them (spray, wipe or dip)
7)Fletch
8)Hot melt or epoxy on field tips or broadheads
Shoot them!!!!
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

NoCams

If you are using a trucenter taper tool and your shafts are real loose in the bushing you will get off center tapers sometimes. Before I switched to a woodchuck sander type I would wrap the shaft with cellophane tape to get a tight fit in the bushing. Just pay attention to what direction you wrap it so it does not unwrap as you taper your shaft. Kept my tapers much more accurate and centered on the shaft.
TGMM  Family of the Bow
"Failure to plan is planned failure"


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