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tuning question

Started by sawtoothscream, April 11, 2011, 11:56:00 AM

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sawtoothscream

just got my broadheads last week and was doing some shooting. they hit with the field tips where i want but the tail of the arrow seems to be angled to the left. so what does that mean?   im using 250gr tusker concordes with left bevel
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"

Bjorn

BH's make the arrow a tad longer and therefore weaker causing a slight tuning imbalance. Can you reduce the up front weight? I am assuming you are a rightie.

sawtoothscream

ya rightie. still havnt sharpened the heads, kme said that will take a bit of wieght off.  i can still trim down the arrows a little and play around i guess since i have a saw
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"

Bjorn

Go slow on the arrow shortening if you are using carbons they can get stiff in a hurry.

Gufunk

When you say slow, how slow 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, or 1/2
thanks
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JimB


BWD

I go 1/8" when I'm getting real close, and this may sound stupid; however, I like to shoot them more than one day before continuing to trim. I normally wear myself out shooting and trimming, and often when starting fresh, the next day, the results aren't quite the same.  :dunno:
"If I had tried a little harder and practiced a little more, by now I could have been average"...Me

Shawn Leonard

Shawn

LH Keith

BWD,
 True, True! I think too much shooting, practicing or especially trying to dial in your arrows can be fatigueing and lead to diminishing returns. Quality shots, Quality results.
   
    Keith
If this was easy, everyone would be doin' it!

SS Snuffer

Chuck
Kodiak Mag 52" 41 lb.
Kota Kill-Um 60" 42 lb.
Kanati 58" 38 lb.
Black Hunter Longbow 60" 40 lb.

No Guts - No Story

sawtoothscream

so do the majority think im to weak?  back end pointing to the left?  just want to much sure before i trim down a a few arrows to try
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"

George Vernon

Are your field points the same weight?  If so, then try a couple of bare shafts with the broadheads.  If they group to the right (don't worry about nock orientation) then you're underspined for a right hand shooter.  Going shorter on the shaft is one approach.  Adding a little thickness to your strike plate is another.  Adding some weight to the nock end will also add stiffness.

MnFn

Do many of you bareshaft with broadheads? I thought that was a no-no. Just asking; I have never done that.
"By the looks of his footprint he must be a big fella"  Marge Gunderson (Fargo)

"Ain't no rock going to take my place". Luke 19:40

JimB

I have never bare shafted broadheads,have been warned not to by some knowledgeable shooters.I don't want to find out.Broadhead fletched arrows seem to be more sensitive than bare shaft field pointed ones so tuning with broadhead fletched is what I do.

I would think that adding sideplate thickness would be the easiest fix if they are that close.

Pikeman

I've found the planing method to be a more accurate one. Follow this to a great description and methodology of it. This is one of the best write ups I've ever found.

http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm
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