ILF without all the adjustability

mooseman76 · April 09, 2010, 09:16:00 PM

I know that the adjustability is part of what makes the ILF system unique. However, I don't like the idea of all the tiller adjustments, lateral limb adjustments, etc... It seems like too much to go wrong (wrong settings, screw comes loose, etc...). I do like the idea of being able to put any number of limbs on my riser. So, is there a compromise? I was thinking maybe something like a Hoyt Gamemaster riser with the bushings. Is there any downside to this setup (besides the lack of adjustments)? Will you still get the performance of the particular limb without the ILF system?

Also how do you determine the brace height range when putting different length/make limbs on your bow? Does it go by the limb itself or the riser? Any other thoughts are appreciated. Thank you...Mike

David Mitchell · April 10, 2010, 06:53:00 AM

That's why I got rid of the only ILF bow I ever owned. I just don't need all that fiddelin' around and prefer a limb that just locks down. Also didn't like the way the limbs flop around when unstrung.

SteveB · April 10, 2010, 07:16:00 AM

Tiller adjustment is one of the reason I shoot ILF exclusively (DAS system). Any ILF limb you put on can be quickly and easily set for perfect tiller. Literally take seconds and I have never had "anything go wrong".

BH is a function of that limb, riser, and shooter - just as with any bow ILF or not.

koger · April 10, 2010, 07:41:00 AM

Steve B is right on the money, dont over think it and tinker yourself to death, tune, and forget it. Mine have never loosened up once I tightened the screws down where I want them. I had a riser out the other day, put on a new set of limbs, made a string, set the nock and after shooting the first group, adjusted the plunger button on the riser, done. Tight groups out to 30-40 yards till I got tired.

Bill Carlsen · April 10, 2010, 08:28:00 AM

I would suggest that the DAS Dalaa is the best compromise because the ILF fittings are modified with a bolt on system that once is set up is more solid and does away with the need to worry about lateral adjustments. You can convert any ILF limb with a DAS bushing in less than 10 minutes. Changing limbs is no more of a problem than changing limbs on any 3 piece bow.

I totally agree with Steve. Once you learn how to set up tiller and are comfortable with it I compare it to tuning a guitar. Once you do it a few times it becomes easy and allows you the latitude to really customize your tuning. The use of a cushion plunger also allows one to perfect tuning an arrow that might otherwise be borderline. All those adjustment options actually make for better shooting and tuning once you get the hang of it.

maxwell · April 10, 2010, 10:43:00 AM

Das Dalaa system- I've had zero problems and I am the destroyer of things- I was shooting the other day and the weight felt heavy on my shoulder so one complete turn out and two -three # lighter and all was well. These are great bow systems. Arrow flight not a problem.

mooseman76 · April 10, 2010, 10:51:00 AM

Can you get a Dalaa with the Black riser? I looked at the website and there is only camo bows on there...Mike

wingnut · April 10, 2010, 11:13:00 AM

Give 3R a call. I believe they now have black anodized Dalaa risers.

Mike

Earthdog · April 11, 2010, 03:28:00 AM

I sold my DAS Hunter and replaced it with a Hoyt Dorado with bushed ILF Trad Tech limbs,and I could be happier with it.

The (DAS/3R) Dalaa set up is even more complicated than the standard ILF,,,so far over engineered it may as well of had wheels,,,as Maxwell has just pointed out.

James Wrenn · April 11, 2010, 08:21:00 AM

Sounds like you would better off staying with a one piece bow instead of fooling with ilf.No screws that way and nothing you can mess up.

ILF bows are not for everyone.If you don't like adjustments and such there really is no reason to ever use one.You can buy any td bow and get different limbs if you want so there really is no reason to go ILF or Das. :confused:

mooseman76 · April 11, 2010, 03:13:00 PM

James, that is exactly what I was saying to begin with. However, I do like the idea of being able to buy one riser and being able to buy all sorts of limbs of all sorts of manufacturers. Longbow, recurve, Morrison, Dryad, TradTech, etc... Plus I'm able to buy at many different price ranges. The takedown bow I'm currently waiting on has limbs that cost approx $700 for spares where if I had something to accept ILF limbs I could buy something substantially cheaper or go top of the line. Exactly the reason I mentioned a Gamemaster with the bushings, no adjustments, lots of limbs to choose from. After talking to more people though it seems like ILF/DAS may not be so bad. I'm confused

CUJO · April 11, 2010, 04:06:00 PM

Gamemaster pins adjust for alignment also.

Bob Morrison · April 11, 2010, 08:48:00 PM

Just because you can adjust things don't mean you have to...... Is twisting a string to get the brace you need too hard, setting a nock at the correct height also too hard??????????
If you use the ILF system to nothing more than adjust your brace height and tiller your way ahead of a 1 pcs or most TD bows you can't..

mooseman76 · April 11, 2010, 09:38:00 PM

Never said it was too hard. I just don't like things to tinker with. I tend to have OCD with certain things I know I'd constantly be checking tightness of bolts, tiller measurements and such. I don't know much about these bows and I'm really trying to learn.

In my mind these bows would have screws and such all over the place (I'm exaggerating of course). One of the main reasons I switched from wheel bows 18 years ago was because of a sight pin that came loose and cost me a relatively easy shot. I like the simplicity, but thought it would be nice to have a whole host of limbs to choose from.

Guess I should just stick to the things I know

trashwood · April 11, 2010, 10:32:00 PM

I like an ILF hunting bow that I can shoot of the off the shelf. that is the same as any trad bow. I take a bow square with my hunting kit. when I put the bow together I check the tiller, then check the BH, then check the NP.

If it is a non-ILF bow I check the BH and NP when I put it together.

this means I have one more check on ILF limbs. the tiller.

simplicity is getting the limbs you want, tillered like you want, and a BH that optimizes the tiller and your arrow speed and flight.

that ain't rocket science or keepin a formula one race kart in top form. It is real simple and you get to make all the choices and not your bowyer.

rusty

Jason R. Wesbrock · April 12, 2010, 11:40:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by mooseman76:
James, that is exactly what I was saying to begin with. However, I do like the idea of being able to buy one riser and being able to buy all sorts of limbs of all sorts of manufacturers. Longbow, recurve, Morrison, Dryad, TradTech, etc... Plus I'm able to buy at many different price ranges. The takedown bow I'm currently waiting on has limbs that cost approx $700 for spares where if I had something to accept ILF limbs I could buy something substantially cheaper or go top of the line.

That's exactly the reason why I started shooting ILF risers a few years ago. I liked the idea that if I wanted a different set of limbs, I could buy them from most anywhere, from several different manufacturers, spend less than $100 or as much as I wanted, and have them here the next day.

As far as things going out of adjustment, a lot of the ILF hunting risers have lock screws on the limb bolts (either two that come in from the sides like the DAS, or one that locks from the bottom like the Titan). So once you have the poundage and tiller where you want it (and being able to get the exact poundage you want is nice) you tighten the lock screws and nothing is going to move.