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Arrow spine suggestions for woodies?

Started by americanhunter7, February 05, 2010, 03:49:00 AM

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americanhunter7

Looking for arrow spine suggestions for woodies, so I can get some shafts and start making some. RER 42#@28" recurve. My actual DL is 28.75". I have looked at a few different arrow charts and am coming up with anywhere from 50-65 for the spine...Any suggestions? I know I'll get opinions too but that is all right and totally understood with all the ladies and gents in here with varying opinions. I was just trying to get a better idea of woodies since you can't adjust them as much as you can with a carbon or aluminum shaft, and I really was wanting to have some woodies to chuck around in the backyard with my nephew.
John         :campfire:        

TGMM Family of the Bow

Earthdog

Shoot the arrows that are the correct spine for your bow with a 125g point.
IE,45LB spine.
They are spined this way for good reason and 125g points were for years been the standard.
I know a lot of people today shoot over spined arrows for what ever reason,but long before this trad thing came along,people just followed the AMO standard and didn't have all the tuning issues we constantly read about today.
For 30 years I just bought 55lb spined shafts for my 55lb recurves,put them togeather as per the AMO standard an "never" a problem even though I draw a little under 28" but made all my arrows up to 28.5.
If you can find some information on the AMO standards,,,you will find they make a lot of sence when it come to Cedar wood arrows.
People like Fred Bear,Ben Pearson an all those other gentlemen that got togeather to form the AMO standards,knew what they were talking about and they didn't shoot over spined arrows.
Winning or losing is not the important thing,,the important thing is how well you played the game.

Bill Carlsen

If you are using a dacron string I would say 55-60 for spine. If you are shooting a modern material string I would go for 60-65.
The best things in life....aren't things!

wollelybugger

I agree with Earthdog, shot the same spine weight arrow as the bow. Some of my bows will shoot a lot of different spine weights but with the lighter bows arrows seem to fly better if you stick to the lighter spined arrows.

Orion

OK, just to even the score and add to your confusion, I agree with Bill.  The RER is a fairly high performance bow cut to or past center.  Add your slightly longer than 28-inch draw and a fast flite string and you need to bump up the weight a bit.  I've been shooting wood for about 50 years, and I've always found most bows to be more tolerant of more spine, and not so tolerant of less spine, with the exception of selfbows.  Good luck.

Shinken

Ditto on 60-65# because you are likely to be shooting 30" BOP.

Shoot straight, Shinken
"The measure of your life will be the measure of your courage."

TRUTH is TRUTH
even if no one believes it

A LIE is a LIE
even if everyone believes it

Bjorn


DesertDude

DesertDude >>>----->

US Navy (Retired)
1978-1998

Fletcher

Your BOP arrow length and the bow's depth of shelf will have big effect on your spine needs, but I'm gonna estimate around 60-64, too.  I'll send a PM.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."

Bill Carlsen

Just so you know where I am coming from here is the rule of thumb that I have been using for about 55 years. If you are shooting a 28" arrow and shooting a center shot bow you need to be shooting an arrow spined 10# heavier than the bow weight at that length. The reason is that the traditional spine values were originally designated for non center shot longbows. The spine values, in other words, originated before center shot bows were common.  Now, for every inch over 28" add 5# of spine and for every inch under 28" subtract one pound of spine. If you are shooting a modern type of string material other than B-50 add another 5# of spine. For every 25 or so grains of point weight over 125 grains add 5# of spine and vice versa for lighter points. In 99% of cases this formula will get you right where you need to be or so close that minimal changes in point weight in one direction or the other will do the trick.
The best things in life....aren't things!

frank bullitt

Yes what has been said, good info from alot of years of experience! I will add, if these are your first shafts, Spend the extra money, and get spined and weighted shafts to the closest tollerances! Don't just buy ramdon weights.

Sounds like Fletcher can help you on this!  :thumbsup:


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