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Another Carbon Arrow Question

Started by BobCo 1965, April 05, 2009, 05:39:00 PM

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BobCo 1965

Last year was the first year that I actually used and liked carbons. I was using 55/75 GT and was using my 67# at 29 Bob Lee Recurve.

Now I'm using a Longbow that is not cut to center and is strung in the basic D fashion. The bow is 51#'s at 30". I thought I'd be using 2016 aluminums but they are spined way too stiff and hit the riser when shot. I had a couple of 50/55 Douglas Fir FluFlus around and they seem to be flying pretty nice. Don't know if the flu flus are just pulling it away from the riser though (6 fletch).

Thoughts on Carbon? Recommendations on where I should get them (tradgang sponsors of course). SIde note, I need them at least 31" long.

Thanks,
Bob

Hot Hap


rraming

GT3555 or Beman 500 (don't know if they come 31, you'll have to look that one up) - that is strange the 2016 came out stiff with your bow - maybe you use a low brace height, increasing it will make the spine drop. (The "way to stiff" comment worries my suggestions though)

xtrema312

That is a longer arrow.  What do you want up front?  There are a lot of variables.  You may need a stiffer one than 3555 and 500.  I shoot those in bows 50-52@28 and about 29" with 200 to 225 on the front.  I think the 500 Bemans I am shooting now are 31 or 31.5 when I started on them.  I know I had them cut to 30 to start tuning.

Do you have those 55/75's around that are 31"?  I would give them a try and play with point weights.

Stu Miller has a spine calculator you can put in all your variables to get some idea where to start then start long on the arrows or heavy on the points and tune from there.
1 Timothy 4:4(NKJV)
For every creature of God is good, and nothing is to be refused if it is received with thanksgiving.

Firefly Long Bow  James 4:14
60" MOAB 54@29 James 1:17

Michigan Longbow Association

Mo. Huntin

Am I confused I thought if you put twists in a string to raise the brace height it would make the arrow show stiffer.

30coupe

QuoteOriginally posted by Mo. Huntin:
Am I confused I thought if you put twists in a string to raise the brace height it would make the arrow show stiffer.
A bit, yes. I don't really see much change to be honest.
Kanati 58" 44# @ 28" Green glass on a green riser
Bear Kodiak Magnum 52" 45# @ 28"
Bodnik Slick Stick longbow 58" 40# @ 28"
Bodnik Kiowa 52" 45# @ 28"
Kanati 58" 46# @ 28" R.I.P (2007-2015)
Self-made Silk backed Hickory Board bow 67" 49# @ 28"
Bear Black Bear 60" 45# @28"
NRA Life Member

30coupe

QuoteOriginally posted by BobCo 1965:
I thought I'd be using 2016 aluminums but they are spined way too stiff and hit the riser when shot.
I doubt that. You may need to raise your nock point a bit. The arrow may be hitting the shelf. 2016's cut as long as you need them would definitely NOT be stiff.
Kanati 58" 44# @ 28" Green glass on a green riser
Bear Kodiak Magnum 52" 45# @ 28"
Bodnik Slick Stick longbow 58" 40# @ 28"
Bodnik Kiowa 52" 45# @ 28"
Kanati 58" 46# @ 28" R.I.P (2007-2015)
Self-made Silk backed Hickory Board bow 67" 49# @ 28"
Bear Black Bear 60" 45# @28"
NRA Life Member

Mo. Huntin

So are you saying that I have the theory wrong or that you don't agree with the theory on the brace height?

BobCo 1965

QuoteOriginally posted by xtrema312:
That is a longer arrow.  What do you want up front?  There are a lot of variables.  You may need a stiffer one than 3555 and 500.  I shoot those in bows 50-52@28 and about 29" with 200 to 225 on the front.  I think the 500 Bemans I am shooting now are 31 or 31.5 when I started on them.  I know I had them cut to 30 to start tuning.

Do you have those 55/75's around that are 31"?  I would give them a try and play with point weights.
Thanks, I did a little digging, and you are correct that the Beman are longer then the GT (30") at the .50 Spine. I have nothing set in stone as to what I would like up front.Yes, I did try the 5575's with a 200 grain point and 50 grain insert. They worked great with my 67# Recurve, but not with this longbow.


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