center cut

[penrosefred]

How do I know how much center cut my bow is? I have a Damon-Howett, 55 @ 28" AMO 62"

[O.L. Adcock]

Eyeball the string down the center of the limbs. If the sight window is even with the string, that is "centercut"...If there is a gap, it's cut past center by what ever amount. If it splits a nocked arrow in half, then it's adjusted "centershot". A condition you don't want if you shoot with fingers!   ....O.L.

[Hornseeker]

OL... why dont you want that? You cant tune an arrow to it because of the side/side paradox intro'd from finger release?

I have been under the impression that getting a bow "center shot" would make it easier to tune! Funny though, cause some of my favorite shooting bows are not even Cut to center...

Ernie

[O.L. Adcock]

Ernie, it's desireable only from the standpoint point it gives you the option/flexability to build out the side plate for tuning purposes. You could shoot one "centershot" if you have a very clean release and very good form. But a bow adjusted so needs a very high spine and will be very unforgiving to your errors. Cut WAY past centershot so an elevated rest can be used helps some but not much. No surprize some of your favorites are a long way from center! Mine may be cut close to center or centershot but I don't shoot them that way... ...O.L.

[penrosefred]

Thanks, i understand more now. Now what does the AMO stand for?

[Doc Nock]

As one very wise fella on here told me not too long ago, a shelf cut way past center means that the arrow "doesn't know which way to paradox upon release".

All these years of thinking my 3/16 past center was an advantage..    

I must have "decently consistent" release, but it's that "occassional" flyer or misbehaving flight, regardless if it hits where I want, that freaks me out. Now I know why...

Thanks, OL!      

[Hornseeker]

Pen, Archery Manufacturers Association.

Doc...OL... gotchya... that makes a lot of sense. I can get my center shot or near center shot stuff tuned...using "groups" (bareshafting)  but everynowandagain I'll get that arrow that flys like a monkey... at which point I think...dang...those arrows cant be tuned well if that thing is flying that crazy...

My old bow, my very first lb I built is probably more than an 1/8 out of center, plus with the leather on the strike plate...its way out. I've never shot a bow appreciably better than that bow!! now I am beginning to understand why!

This is good too...cause I have a bunch of Axis 500's that I thought would be too weak.

E

[Dartwick]

Is this understanding correct?

Having a bow(including the rest etc.) close to center SHOT makes it more forgiving on the range of suitable arrows but less for giving of an inconsistent release?

By range of arrows I dont mean anything works just a wider range.

[Hornseeker]

I dont know Dart? OL?  That IS what I've heard...but now I am questioning that and really dont have enough, diverse tuning experience to say...
E

[O.L. Adcock]

dart, "Having a bow(including the rest etc.) close to center SHOT makes it more forgiving on the range of suitable arrows"

No, there is still only a narrow range that will tune for any given amount of centershot. Having the room to change the centeshot is what makes a wide range tunable, but we have to change it. Yep, what we've always "heard" was bastardized from it's orginal meaning and handed down for decades....O.L.

[Killdeer]

So true in so many fields!!   :eek:

Killdeer  

[Gray Wolf]

Thanks OL you've just made clear why I shoot my gamemaster better than all my other bows, Elevated rest that I set up with a laser at the compound shop. Just got lucky was reading Easton info on how to tune.I set the flipper rest with the point of the arrow 1/8 in from the centerline of the string.
Mike

[JSimon]

Hmmm, I didn't realize that a bow cut past center could be more difficult to shoot. That explains my issues lately with my Quinn Stallion, which is cut 5/16" PAST center. I shoot a Bear Weatherrest that has been wearing out on me. Everyone suggests that my arrows are probably too stiff, but I keep seeing a weak reading when I shoot bare shafts. As my arrow wears through the rest, it gets closer to the riser and probably requires an extremely stiff arrow since it is cut so far past center. Here's a link to my topic about the rest wear.

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=072117

I've been thinking about shooting off of the shelf, or maybe using a plunger with a more durable rest. It sounds like if I shoot off the shelf, it would help to build the side plate out quite a bit. What's everyone's technique for building out the side plate?

[2treks]

Jsimon, I just put a strip of rest material or leather, about 1/8" wide, under the side plate and the rest. This gives a positive place for the arrow to bend around from shot to shot.
Chuck