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Hamm style longbow

Started by Coach, February 04, 2008, 11:50:00 AM

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Coach

After reading Jim Hamm's article in Primitive Archer I got the hankerin to build me a long bow, around 72".  I have read all The Traditional Bowyer's Bibles and such but in making a bow this long I am curious if anyone knows the width at the fades that would be recommended as well as the handle layout.  Does the Hamm long longbow have equal length limbs?  Using osage.  Can anyone help me out?  Coach

Jim Hamm

For a long bow of dense, heavy wood like Osage, I don't recommend any wider than 1 1/4" at the fades. And I like to make the long ones slightly whip-tillered with tiny tips. Rectangular cross-section. And both limbs are equal, much easier to tiller and you can flip it over if the string lays off to the 'wrong' side.

"Hamm longbow" is not really accurate, because I sure didn't invent a long Osage flatbow. It's just what I've come to prefer for hunting or stump shooting; fast, accurate, and forgiving.

Hope this helps.

Jim

Coach

Thanks Jim--Now I've got some direction.  On your longbow is it equal distance from the handle to the fade on both the top and bottom?  I guess I want to know how much of the handle is non working.  Is the arrow rest approximately an inch and  half above handle center?  The bow you descried in the Primitive Archer magazine is one that I want to try.  Thanks, Coach

Osagetree

From the author himself,,, how cool is that?

Jim got me started too with a hard copy of "Bows and Arrows of the Native Americans"
>>--TGMM--> Family of the Bow

Jason Jelinek

Jim,

I know working with wooden bows measurements are never absolute but are you making a 2:1 end of fade to tip thickness taper (3/4" thick at fade to 3/8" thick at tip for example)?

I've found a 1.5:1 thickness ratio and a 2:1 width ratio gives me a circular tiller (this makes a 6.75 end of fade to tip strength ratio).

I've been trying to categorize end of fade to tip strength ratios with the tiller description.

1-6 = inner elliptical
6-8 = circular
8-15 = outer elliptical
16 and above = whip-tillered

The higher the strength ratio the more efficient they seem to get, but stored energy is lost on shorter bows with longer draws.  So an efficient bow that stacks really bad may not be all that fast (or fun to shoot).

This strength ratio for tiller seems to hold true for glass/wood composite bows as well.

Has this been your experience?

Looking at the Mary Rose Longbow dimensions (and Pope&Youngs bows) it appears they are also in that outer-elliptical/whip tillered range, but they were long and could support the longer draws without stacking very much.

Jason

RainCrow

Hey Coach,

Copngrats on your 500th win!!!  Wow!

See ya in a few weeks,

Terry
"Archery" is getting as far from the target as you can, and hitting it.  Bowhunting is getting as close to the target(animal) as you can, and not missing.

Coach

Hi Terry, thanks and I sure am looking forward to seeing you and the gang.  After a long fall and winter it sure is good to get together make bows and relax with good friends!  Coach

Ralph Renfro

Hey Guys, we could make Coach's bow at OJam and then everyone would get to hunt with it for a year.  Heck, only Coach and Mikee could pull it back. I'd hate for Coach to have to drive 18 miles at 5:00 a.m. just to string a bow for me. Ralph
Building Bows Is Only Half The Fun, The Other Half Is Passing That Knowledge On!

Ralph Renfro

BTW Shane, is  your game still on tonight? If you get snowed out, give me a holler at home. I've got some KCT lumber that needs some surfacing.
Building Bows Is Only Half The Fun, The Other Half Is Passing That Knowledge On!

Coach

Ralph, we haven't had a snowflake one yet.  This prediction may have fizzled.  If it starts to get after it and they do postpone it I will give you a call.  Shane


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