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Carbons are driving me crazy!

Started by 2Knives, March 26, 2016, 05:21:00 PM

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2Knives

QuoteOriginally posted by Keith Zimmerman:
Good luck buddy!  The tinkering never ends once u start shooting carbons.  Wait til u finally find the perfect arrow, and they discontinue them like they did with the ACCs.
You warned me this would happen.
I'll fletch one up today and check it out.
I have some #60 limbs that I'm sure these 400s will work in, they're just not my everyday shooting bows.
Good thing my aluminum and GTs still fly great...oh well, it's all part of the fun.
If we all settled...nothing new would happen!
USAF AMMO Retired

Shoot True!!!
Don't Squat with your Spurs on!

Biathlonman

I'm just thinking I could shoot a full length normal .400 with 200 on the front out of a bow pulling mid 40s.  With you shooting mid 50s I think you have to lose either weight or length, especially with the skinny arrows.  I've been wrong before  (only once!  Lol).

Ray Hammond

leave them full length, as you have them.  Sounds to me like the tip weight needs increasing.  Continue to add weight until it flies properly.  Tail left on a right hand shooter indicates the arrow is too stiff.  Don't cut the length out of them....add weight to the point.
"Courageous, untroubled, mocking and violent-that is what Wisdom wants us to be. Wisdom is a woman, and loves only a warrior." - Friedrich Nietzsche

dbd870

QuoteOriginally posted by Biathlonman:
I'm just thinking I could shoot a full length normal .400 with 200 on the front out of a bow pulling mid 40s.  With you shooting mid 50s I think you have to lose either weight or length, especially with the skinny arrows.  I've been wrong before  (only once!  Lol).
From my experience so far 400's are pretty stiff for a 45# bow even with weight
SWA Spyder

WESTBROOK

Your 55/75's are .400, what is the length and point weight on them?

Arctic Hunter

Carbons are finicky...skinny carbons are even more finicky. Skinny carbons, long draw, and a deeply cut riser is a recipe for a headache. There is no telling how much money and time I've spent tuning since I went to axis shafts. My latest set up is shooting a 32" 300 spine shaft with a standard insert and 250 grain tip. I'm drawing 56@30.5"....they like what they like.

I love my axis shafts though. Speed and penetration have been great for me.

Ray Hammond

I shoot the heaviest shafts I can find, use 100 grain inserts, and 200 grain broad heads....I sometimes have to add additional brass o-rings under the head to get them to fly perfect.  Low profile feathers are a plus as well. Since they don't deflect as much as wood or aluminum you don't need to correct as much once they are heavy forward weighted.
"Courageous, untroubled, mocking and violent-that is what Wisdom wants us to be. Wisdom is a woman, and loves only a warrior." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Joeabowhunter

Try 200 gr or more up front and work your way down.

kat

Try upping the up front weight. I shoot round 50 #@30" with a 400 spine, and 100 brass inserts with 200 field point up front. I think your arrows are a little stiff. Try it before you start cutting.
Ken Thornhill

mnbwhtr

Try 340's. I shoot 30 1/2 draw at 64# and axis 340's shoot great.

Manitoba Stickflinger

I shoot the same setup but use heavier points. Like Steve O said...try 200 gr points. My personal experience and watching others is that generally poor flight with carbons is due to too stiff an arrow. Not really thinking the 340's would work well.

Bowwild


Hankem

If they are impacting the same location left to right as your fletched arrows you are probably pretty close. i think you'll be fine with fletching.

Overspined

Just before you hit the "add to cart" button, go down a spine grouping and then go ahead...got my handle by matching up cx 250's with a 40# curve...killed a deer but wow they flew bad.  After shooting wood, carbons took a while to figure out. I still am not sold enough not to shoot mostly wood. Although I've been experimenting again some.

Overspined

Terry, are your bows all center shot?

Terry Green

Nope... probably a half a dozen different recurves and half dozen longbows ...all makes models and lengths.....

Moabs  Big Jim's Lost Creek Black Widow sun bear recurve sun bear longbow two different styles of Morrison recurves Morrison longbows Mohawks Howard Hill just to name a few I can think of off-hand
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Babbling Bob

Same here on the nocking point as I set it about the same among six old recurves and I shoot (52" to 64"), and use the same length arrows among two brands of carbons.  Learned through some money lost on carbons in the past that I typically select a size lighter spine on carbon arrows since I have a short draw length and then work out point weights. Get as close to a good flight as possible bare shaft but don't get too excited about it, especially if I think my shaft size selection was good.  My best luck with out of the box is with Axis Trads, as they seem forgiving to me.  

Actually, even though it can be frustrating at first, and cost some time and money for points etc., to tinker with carbons to get perfection, the advantage of carbons is that they can be tuned to our individual styles of shooting very well.

jackdaw

I would think 500 spine may do the trick. I shoot them in 51# & 53" bows with 200 & 225...even 250 grains up front. I draw 28" and trim to 29.5"... 400 spine has always been too stiff for me...even though most of my recurves are close to centershot...
John Getz:........... Time flies like an arrow, Fruit flies like bananas.
Ed HOLCOMB 59' KODIAK 51#
Ed HOLCOMB 59' KODIAK 47#
67'1/2  BEAR SUPER K  44#
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LONGRIVER ELK 62" LONGBOW 53#
1967 WING 62" SLIMLINE 43#


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