Bare shaft tuning

thor0812 · January 11, 2011, 05:12:00 PM

I am shooting a pse longbow 50@28" 68" long. I am drawing 28.5"-29". I am shooting Beman ics 500 hunters full length with alloy inserts and 3 4inch rh feathers. I started off with 100 grain tips and when I shot a bare shaft with 100 I completely missed the whole target left at 20 yards. Shot 3 times to make sure it wasn't me and got the same result. Went up yo 125 grains, shot a good 3 shot group and hit pretty close to the group with the bare shaft with the 125. Does this mean I'm good on spine or should I try to find some 150's to see what happens? Also, would 125 be a good starting point for broad heads? Don't mind trying out field tips but broad heads get expensive real quick. Thanks in advance.

drewsbow · January 11, 2011, 05:35:00 PM

I like to mess with things so I would try more weight , ya never know

Bjorn · January 11, 2011, 05:59:00 PM

Broadheads make the total package longer and will take a bit less weight in my experience. So, if you use a 150 gn field point a 125 grain BH will do well.

statedriller · January 11, 2011, 06:22:00 PM

PM me your address and I'll send you some 145g field points to try...

thor0812 · January 11, 2011, 06:51:00 PM

Thanks alot Statedriller

boznarras · January 11, 2011, 07:32:00 PM

You might look at the field point test kit that 3 rivers sells for $5.50. It has two each of six different weights from 100 to 250 grains. Pretty handy to have around for this sort of thing...

thor0812 · January 11, 2011, 07:40:00 PM

Thanks, will check into that. Should I just keep going up until I start getting rh misses then back down from there? I have read that when shooting off the shelf paper tuning is useless so what else should I do?

January 11, 2011, 07:57:00 PM

sure you can do that...you might be better off with a bit more head wieght if they fly straight bare shafted..

thor0812 · January 11, 2011, 08:23:00 PM

Should they not fly straight bare? I was under the impression that when bare shafting the idea was to get the bare shaft to hit where the fletched shafts do.

January 11, 2011, 08:35:00 PM

they will with the proper wieght on the point....
once you have the bare shaft hitting on.
then you need to use that wieght on your fletched shafts.

thor0812 · January 11, 2011, 09:13:00 PM

Ok thats what I thought. I am new to traditional and cant believe how much the mechanical aspects of compounds hide. I never "tuned" anything with my compound and hit great. This is a TOTALLY different world. It is much harder than compounds but is much more rewarding to me.

January 11, 2011, 09:21:00 PM

its not really hard once you understand the way an arrow reacts when shot...youll get it.

thor0812 · January 11, 2011, 10:32:00 PM

Hope so. 3d season is coming up here and would like to give it a go

ch1ch2 · January 11, 2011, 10:42:00 PM

Start with Stu Miller's calculator

Matt Green · January 12, 2011, 06:03:00 PM

Good info from others- only thing i'd add is, some feel it is ideal to have bare shafts showing slightly weak. Reasons: a) more forgiving and b) once fletched the shafts will react slightly stiffer than w/o feathers. Enjoy - the tuning and tinkering can be lots of fun
mg

trad_bowhunter1965 · January 12, 2011, 09:21:00 PM

I shoot a Pronghorn 62'52@28 my arrows are Axis 500 cut at 29" with a 75gr brass insert with 165gr point with 3 5" shield cut feather,I shoot my bare shaft out to 30 yards and it groups with my Fletch arrows.

hvyhitter · January 12, 2011, 10:05:00 PM

I always go back to this: http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm