Deer don't get big here anyways Dan..

When I switched back 20 yrs ago to sticks, I could only handle 45#...then slowly got to mid 50's... then started using REAL back tension and went from full 28" draw to almost 29".

As time took it's toll, the draw weight dropped, and am now in the 45#-48# draw weight and it still is about full draw, back tension and releasing w/ full follow through.

5# of increased draw weight is amazing what it will do to your form! Hang in there. Get the recommended DVD.

Check out the Shooter's Forum and there are great form clips on there...and a ton of mentoring right from your puter!  

I'm not gettin the whole back tension thing..someone explain, please?

What part of bama are you from Drew? I'm in Lauderdale Co. NW part of state. U Close?

Ditto with all said, keep your chin up and if it shoots well, you will have no worries ! My first recurve was 45# nomad stalker and many deer fell to it before i realized there were bigger and better bows out there!!

Dwill, pull you arm up and hold you elbow out, pull your elbow back and you will feel your back muscles pulling instead of all arm muscles.

Dwill,
If you were shooting fingers with your compound and fingers with your recurve, your draw length will be the same. Below is a drawing showing how draw length is measured, as some have accurately noted above.

However, more important as where you measure the arrow at the back of the bow shelf is HOW you draw the bow.  Most compound shooters are over-drawn, many traditional shooters are under-drawn.  When you are at full-draw imagine a line from your grip, through your anchor, and past the elbow. The elbow should be 1/2"-1" IN FRONT of (or outside) this line. This allows you to initiate a rearward motion of your drawing elbow, using your drawing side back muscle (shoulder blad rhomboid)to execute a proper shot.

If you are over drawn -- elbow in line or behind it--you are overextended preventing the back from being involved in the shot. If you are underdrawn you are holding the string with your biceps, again preventing your back from participating in the shot.  This is how 7.1 million students, including those from more than 400 schools in Alabama, are being taught by the National Archery in the Schools Program.

Tim Strickland (stricklandsarchery.com) has a terrific DVD about shooting traditional. Tim is the most successful coach of Olymipic archers our country has ever had and is an avid traditional archer.

Just call me stupid then. I done the same on my first custom bow in 61. That is not having a good shooting form/foundation.

Also, I am not only stupid I am slow in that I thought you always needed a heavy bow for big game (deer, elk, bear, lope, moose etc.) I was shooting the 70+ pounders early on which contributed to my shoulder and elbow problem that cost me 8 years of no bow hunting of any kind.

So great advice on form first by others,

I know of 2 trad hunters that use 46-48 pounders that have taken elk and bear with them. Just knowing ones limitations and their equipment, plus shot placement and sharp broadheads.

So bottom line on your set up no problem as others stated also.

Please guys,don't call yourself stupid! Congrats Dwill,fun just started.

Coil Springs: I'm in Calhoun County..I think were a little ways away.

Everyone else:
I know #48 is good enough to kill anything I'll be hunting.

My assumption about back tension was correct. I try to shoot with good back tension, I just don't know if I'm doing it right.

I have to agree with Bernie, Don't be calling ourselves stupid. When I first joined the gang I was kinda embarrassed to ask a few questions but did anyway. Right away I knew I was in the right place to learn all I will ever need to know about trad gear and trad hunting.

Ask away. As far as DVD's I don't have any advice on that but the shooters forum got me straigtened out on alot of form issues.

Dwill. for Back tension you need to find and develop your rhomboid muscles.  Following the Rod Jenkins clinic I began to wonder if my concept and use of back tension was correct.
You know the concept of "squeezing to pinch the pack of cigarettes". I was squeezing but I was using mostly the wrong muscle groups.

Did some investigating. My chiropractor who is also a Tia Chi master explained what I was doing wrong and gave me some training exercises. I could not clearly explain them clearly in words so I asked if she would be willing to do a video I could share with the other guys from the clinic.

She taught this old dog some new tricks and it is making a significant difference.

It is a bit hokey but will definitely give you an understanding of back tension and how to develop your rhomboids. Part 1 & 2 are the most valuable.

Part 1
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aahqB4hKmKk  
Part 2
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Lno2owb5mY  
Part 3
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeonUiClmF0

Andrew

The "mystery" of back tension was what I finally figured out that forever added an inch to my draw length and gave me the kind of accuracy I had been looking for in my shooting for years.

The best illustration I've seen to explain which muscles we're talking about is from the "Master's" DVD I mentioned before.

Take an arrow shaft, and hold it in front of you at shoulder's height.  Grip it with both hands, thumbs touching in the middle of the arrow, and palms pointing down at the floor.  Now, pretend like you are trying to pull the arrow in half!  The muscles that you feel working in your back are the ones I want to have involved in drawing a bow.  Does that makes any sense?

For years, I tried to draw so my middle finger touched the corner of the mouth.  That is good for a lot of folks, but for me, it did NOT give me good back tension, and I sprayed arrows all over the place.  We are all built differently.

One sentence in something I read changed the whole game of archery for me.  "Instead of trying to anchor at a specific spot (like corner of mouth), concentrate on coming to full draw with the muscles of your back.  Then, where ever your fingers happen to touch your face is your reference point."

For me, that meant my back muscles had proper tension, my new reference spot (rather than "anchor") was index finger touching my cheekbone, and I drew 29" rather than 28!

The deer wish I had never figured that out!!

Hope that picture helps a little bit...

Its all about patience.  I was real quick to buy a bow before i shot any trad bows...so therefore I did not know any measurements and wennt with what i "thought" was right.  As I am slowly learning patience when buying equipment always pays off in the long run.  Shooting multiple bows and learning draw lenghts and handles makes a big differende.

THe good thing is that we all get more bow than we need and like you have said no matter what your draw length is in the long run you still have plenty of weight to kill all animals in NA, as they stay just keep your shots true and points sharp!!!

And its not stupidity, it impatience and excitement.  At least you have the excuse of being young...i have no such reasonable excuse

I like using the young excuse E.Allen

So from using Daryl's method of trying to "pull an arrow in half" I feel the muscles between my shoulder blades working. I'm getting that same muscle work by trying to keep my "drawing arm" elbow tucked close to my body and when I do that I'm getting a good back workout and my drawlength seems longer too.

Gonna keep at it.