What are the benefits/drawbacks to using tapered shafts as opposed to straight Cedar shafts?

Really depends on whom you ask. There is the collection of accepted theory about clearing easier, faster etc. And the supposed recovery from paradox being faster.........I have always used them because they look cool; but after discussion with some folks that I respect I am going to try parallel shafting for a while.

I to have heard all the so on's and so forth's about both types. The funny thing for me is parallel flys more consistent, for me. Most would argue Im crazy, but I have a few of each and they match within 10 grains and within 4#'s of one another. Keep in mind this is the opposite of "what should be right". Luckily they are also $10 a dozen cheaper!

After putting a rear taper on many dozens in the last couple of years, I would have to have to say I can't really tell any difference.  If the spine is close and the shaft is straight, they shoot just as well either way.  I am like Bjorn, I thought they were cool, but if I can skip a step and get the same result I am all for it.

I tapered 1 dozen surewoods using the 3 Rivers tapering tool. They turned out nice but I couldn't tell a bit of difference from my surewood parallels. They do look nice but it's not worth the effort, to me, to taper them.

I can't tell any difference out of my bows.

I've shot a lot of both over the years and prefer tapered.  Like most, I started with parallel and shot them for several years.  Once I started shooting tapered, I knew I liked them better.  Paper tuning showed me that they straighten quicker for me and I like the added FOC balance.  I believe the taper "tillers" the shaft allowing it to flex more evenly and bend around the bow better and the lighter tail allows it to straighten quicker.  Way back when fletchers made shafts by hand, their better arrows were tapered.  They wouldn't have invested the extra effort it they didn't believe it was worth it.

Well matched shafts are critical to making good wood arrows.  Well matched parallel shafts will make better arrows than loosely matched tapereds.

The key to accurate arrows is to precisely match the spine. In my experience tapering offers no benefit to accuracy. The advantage to tapering is to control the weight. Tapering the end removes weight letting you put more forward. Also tapering weakens the spine if only done on one side, keep it in mind if you do your own.

I just like'em and the main reason I went to tapered was for the added foc although not much every little bit helps.

I have a matched dozen that Fletcher built me and they are awsome and fly great. I only break them out for hunting season. I practice with paralells and tapered and cant tell that much difference. I don't like to beat up my good hunting arras.

Stiks

you benefit more from tapered shafts when your bow isn't cut to or past center .

tapered shafts look kinda cool.  for years i tapered all my woodies using a jig and electric drill.  other than that, i see no clear advantage to incrementally trimming off a measly 1/64" from the arrow diameter as it moves towards the nock end.  also, if yer tapering yer own, get higher spined shafts as removing wood from the butt end of the shaft will weaken the spine.

I have seen no difference when shooting at 3D or hunting distances.  For target out to 80 yds, I think the tapered seem to fly and group better.

Rob's right about the loss of spine and weight, altho it isn't very much.  Starting with an 11/32, 60 lb spine shaft, a 10 inch taper to 5/16 will cost about 2 lb spine and 10 grains weight. The diameter difference is 1/32"; the radius is 1/64", about .015 inch.

Is there a DVD on how to build tapered shafts?

Have Fletcher do them for you, he does some good ones.

When I shot wood arrows,I do like a tapered arrow.I felt it gave me alittle more FOC and recovered a bit quicker.

I have been field testing a tapered carbon calle Ironwoods. They do recover faster and have little to no paradox effect. My groups at twenty yards have improved.

QuoteOriginally posted by CA BOWHUNTER:
Is there a DVD on how to build tapered shafts?

you don't need a dvd, the good info is right here at the trad gang 'how to - resources' forum!

tapered woodies

QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
 

QuoteOriginally posted by CA BOWHUNTER:
Is there a DVD on how to build tapered shafts?

you don't need a dvd, the good info is right here at the trad gang 'how to - resources' forum!

tapered woodies  [/b]

Thanks Rob

I shoot longbows 47#@28" and cut the arrows 29" and one of the best shooting wood arrows I ever shot was some parallel 21/64" chundoo(between 5/16 and 11/32). It is of the pine family but tougher than P.O. cedar. I have tried to find them, but cannot seem to locate any. Ken