Are there any secrets to keeping carbon steel from rusting?  I am in the process of switching over to trad this season.  I hunted in the rain last week and had a quiver full of rust the next day!  Most of my hunting days tend to be bad weather so I either need to figure out how to keep the rust away or find some good (cheap) stainless steel options.

Thanks.

Coat them with vegetable oil. Then clean them and coat them again when you get home.

Dip your broad heads in 90 weight gear oil.  If that is not to your liking or you don't have gear oil handy bow string wax.  Either will work and the string wax doesn't smell.

Silicone spray, a little wax, or vaseline lightly applied. vegetable spray and keep heads covered as much as possible with some type of waterproof cover.

just what Randy said. then at least ya wont have to add the oil when cooking the back straps.  

I have dipped mine in melted paraffin wax.

Warm BH dipped in vaseline or cooking oil.

Sounds simple enough.  I'll have to give it a try.

Wire brush them [I've used a fine wire wheel on my stationary grinder ...but be careful as it may try and grab the broadhead...  I hold with pliers] and coat with a can of flat  black or OD green spray paint.. Re-sharpen and keep the edge protected with veg. oil, vasoline, or chap stick while in the field        

Gene

After you get them sharp take chap stick to them.  Comes in an easy to use travel pack that is tiny enough to haul into the field.  Also, just part of hunting with carbon heads and it is best to keep an eye on the edges throughout the season regardless of weather conditions.

I use mineral oil. Someone here on trad gang posted a tip last year about using veg. or mineral oil in your quiver foam. It works great.

I would use INOX M3 machine oil as it is food grade or other lubricant oils.

Also, I have heard that vaseline has some coagulative properties so I would never use that.

I use Food grade silicone (has no smell) and on my practice heads I have spray painted them with appliance epoxy paint(the stuff that your stove is painted with Ace hardware sells it).They will not rust and you can still sharpen them.

I spray my hood foam with PAM and mine stay pretty nice. You can remove the rust pretty easiyl with 0000 steel wool.

I use mineral oil on mine & so far they haven't started to rust.

I like to use a Sharpie marker. Cover the sharpened edges, it protects until the next time you need to check the edges or touch-up.

Also a cold bluing pen or dye, and even some Feibings leather dye would work.

Don't like to use the oils, vaseline, or such, because of the dirt it attracts. And messy!

As for cleaning the rust off, one of those toothbrush style wire brushs work good. And resharpening should clean up the rust.

Welcome to the fun side of archey, and good shootin too ya!

Steve

The other thing that helps is to heat them when you come in. They don't have to get flat out wet to rust, temp. changes create condensation.
Everything these guys said works great, but I also blow dry them when home for the night.
If I have time that is.......

Somehow, moisture must have gotten into your quiver hood/foam.  Dry it out well and put a little mineral oil in where the blades go.  Coat the edges lightly when you get them sharp.

WD-40, in the hood and on the heads. The carrier will evaporate and leave no smell, but will still protect the steel.

Boiled Linseed Oil.........
Folks used to put it on shovels, hoes, picks and mattocks......
My Brother-in-law says it's THE STUFF for coating his snow blade during the off season, and when snow removal time comes he says the snow slides right off for the first day or two.
Boiled Linseed oil will dry after a few days and won't be so sticky. I usually sharpen my heads soon as I buy them, or just after season is over, and coat them with BLO. Then, they're usually rust free and non- oily for the whole season.....