I had a B.W.Longbow that did that, adjusted knock point as was suggested on this site. It worked!

I raised the nock point, still happens.
I tried cock feather in, still happens but not as bad.
Ray, I do put a drop of glue on the front of the quill.
I have not tried right wing feathers yet.
I might change the side plate if all else fails

I suggest lowering the shelf, if you have any room to work with. The string is pushing the arrow down as it travels forward, and a lower shelf will reduce that effect. I would also turn the cock feather in, and raise the nocking point until it quits.

Don, you would think raising the shelf would help.

It looks to me like the arrow is going way inside in the paradox caused by the oscilation of the string upon release.  INSIDE is toward your nose, OUTSIDE is toward your ear.  Your string should bisect a line that runs down the inside of the front edge of the shaft when your arrow is on the rest and the bow is not drawn.  A properly released string should first go toward your nose or inside then go toward your ear or outside.  When the arrow and string seperate the string should be half the diameter of the shaft to the out side of center.  This will push your arrow directly from behind the center of the shaft.  It looks to me like the cut on your hand is to the inside of the shaft.  You adjust this release point by tightening or loosening the string by twisting untill you have the proper fistmille.  What is commonly called "brace height".  I am assuming that you are not getting porposing and are not nock high or nock low.  The reason you may not be experiencing feather burn with different arrows is different spine weights will have different oscilation curves or paradox curves.  When you are searching for the  proper brace  height I put 4 twists on the string and then shoot 3-4 shots to allow the string to adjust to the new string length.    Be sure that your knocking point is at least as high as the feathers are burned.  A bow with proper brace height should not give you featehr burn even when shooting off your knuckle or when useing no rest at all.  Just remember that in is toward your nose and out is toward your ear.  Makes no difference if you shoot right hand or left hand this way.  if this doesn't help email me direct and I will walk you through it in person.  Kip

When I said that the string at "seperation should be half a shaft out side of center" I meant to say Half the diameter of the shaft Outside of the string at rest.  Like I said if you don't follow what I wrote send me an email.  it is confusing as to which point you are viewing from.

Yes I have had this happen. Turn cock feather in has helped me on one of my bows. I also usually put a drop of super glue on the spot where the shaft and quill meet. This makes a smooth transition from quill to shaft does not catch my hand or arrow rest. Just a drop on the front and don't try to smooth it out let it dry like a little bubble.

I had the problem with a Centaur, and was shooting three under tried everything to fix but to know avail.  Tried nock pt, spine, etc..I eventually went to split finger and turn the cock feather up (12:00 position) to fix the problem.  It now shoots good , with no more feathers in the hands but I had to change drawing style to do so.

move nock point up that should do the trick        plus drop a bit of fletchtite glue on the front end of the fletch

Whether you buy or make your own, it is a good idea to sand the quill to smooth out the taper to the shaft, then put a drop of varnish, or clear coat and touch it up if needed.

As for the problem, if the ST Axis 340's are stiff, you can add more weight up front. For some reason the arrow is kicking out, if that is your true hand position. Nock pt may be a touch low. Just a couple things I would check.

I have recently gotten a Horne long bow and been having the same problem, and I shoot cock feather in and right wing helical  Adjusting the nock point helped alot.  Now it seems to be related to quality of release.

This is why I shoot left wing feathers.  Left helical puts that cock feather rotating away from your hand instead of into it.

It's not a problem on many bows, and you can rotate your nocks a bit to give you more clearance if you prefer that to left wing.

I had that problem shooting a youth bow, it may be that your hand is to big for the grip.

Night Stalker, I don't think raising the shelf would be a good idea. Each bow has a best nocking point that is determined by how the limbs are balanced and tillered, and that nocking point has to line up with the shelf at the proper height for the best performance. Shooting bare shafts will tell you where the optimum nocking point should be, but if the shelf isn't in the right spot (slightly too high) it can cause this kind of problem, making the tail end of the arrow go down to your hand. It's easy to check when you have the bare-shaft nocking point located, just by putting an arrow on the string. With the arrow nocked it should look like the arrow is level or pointing just slightly down hill to the shelf. In other words, the angle between the upper half of the string and the arrow should be 90 degrees or slightly more.

If the arrow is pointing slightly up hill, you have to raise the nocking point or lower the shelf to get the right alignment. Getting the right alignment is the reason many bows are made with the lower limb slightly shorter and stiffer.

This might not be the problem at all, but it's my best guess from what you've described.

I'm not a bowyer, but I've hung out with them a lot.    

On over 90 bows I have a couple gave me this problem.
-Try to arise the nocking point(Done)
-Use a stiffer arrow.
-Check if the serving is to tight for thre nock you are using.
Keep me posted.

I have been shooting 30 some yrs, it is not the obvious. Hopefully, when I get this solved, it will shed a little more light on what is going on. I shoot left wing, always have.
Kip, I think you are right. By looking at both photo's and knowing that the arrow combination is bareshafting really well, it is hard for me to believe that the arrow as stiff as it is, flexes down to stick the front of the quill in my hand. I know it does though, if I shave or file down the front quill, it might be better on me but it will still not solve the problem. I might have to change arrows in order to get a different arrow parodox.

Funny, I boutght some new acs limbs and I'm having the same problem.  The new limbs are 54#'s the old ones are 53#'s it's giving me fits!!

the chef

I finally broke down and called A&H. I told them the situation and they told me to try raising the nock point up to 3/4. I went home from work and did what they suggested since I shoot 3 under and it resolved with the five inch left helical feathers. Now, I am going to go back to bare shafting since the nock point is way up there. The arrows are flying really good though. I need to shoot some broadheads to see what impact the really high nocking point has on the arrow flight.

As far away from the riser as it is hitting, I would stiffen my spine.  In your case, take out some of the backing from your strike plate.  Also, your nock could be to low causing you arrow to dip upon release from the string.

God Bless,
Nathan