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Water based arrow finish input needed

Started by Caleb the bow breaker, November 08, 2010, 05:41:00 PM

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Caleb the bow breaker

Have been using regular minwax polyurethane on wood arrows for quite a while and have a few problems with it.  yellows over time, always seems to dry in my diptube or whatever jar I transfer too, stinks a little, hard to clean up.  I am contemplating the water based minwax polycrilic and would like to know what other think about it.  

do you have to use water based stains?

how does it work with hardwood shafts

can it be stored in the dip tube with no problems?

what type of cresting paints are compatible

what type of paint is compatible for crown dip

Pretty much I want to know everything about it.

Caleb
Oh squeaky treestand, how I hate thee!

Jeff Strubberg

I was never able to find a water based finish that cured very hard.  Good enough for hunting and stumping, but pretty much any target, you end up with target material welded to the finish.
"Teach him horsemanship and archery, and teach him to despise all lies"          -Herodotus

Bjorn

I use Raptor dip it is water based call Ted at Raptor Archery. And do some Googling too, you have a lot of questions.

lpcjon2

I use water based poly for wood floors and mix it 1to 3 and I use water based stains as well,testors works good for cresting,Crown dip I use bins primer light coat and then I spray paint the crown light coats,yes it can be stored in a tube.The key is when you do the poly dip( I do three coats) let it dry at least 10-12hrs between coats.And I like to hit the first dry coat and the second with steel wool(light to knock off the pimples.And I did some Magnolia shafts last year and they look great. Thats it and good luck.P.S no fumes    :thumbsup:
Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a
difference in the world, but the Marines don't have that problem.
—President Ronald Reagan

lpcjon2

I use water based poly for wood floors and mix it 1to 3 and I use water based stains as well,testors works good for cresting,Crown dip I use bins primer light coat and then I spray paint the crown light coats,yes it can be stored in a tube.The key is when you do the poly dip( I do three coats) let it dry at least 10-12hrs between coats.And I like to hit the first dry coat and the second with steel wool(light to knock off the pimples.And I did some Magnolia shafts last year and they look great. Thats it and good luck.P.S no fumes    :thumbsup:
Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a
difference in the world, but the Marines don't have that problem.
—President Ronald Reagan

JPE

I use water based  and mix it 50/50. I have used it on cedar, and ash.  I store it in adip tube with no problem. If you would like to talk about it give me a call 573-543-5357.    Jim

seabass

i use polycrylic.i also use acrylic paints and stains from walmart.they work well for me,but parts of my deer targets do get stuck on them.i have never used them in dip tubes.i use foam brushes and hand paint them on.i am sure there are better things to use,but they are cheap and work well enough for me,steve

Canadabowyer

The waterbased clear from Three Rivers works very well for me. I store it in the dip tube and dip each shaft four times and steel wool in between coats. Bob
"non illegitimus carborundum est"

Encino Man

QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
I use water based poly for wood floors and mix it 1to 3 and I use water based stains as well,testors works good for cresting,Crown dip I use bins primer light coat and then I spray paint the crown light coats,yes it can be stored in a tube.The key is when you do the poly dip( I do three coats) let it dry at least 10-12hrs between coats.And I like to hit the first dry coat and the second with steel wool(light to knock off the pimples.And I did some Magnolia shafts last year and they look great. Thats it and good luck.P.S no fumes     :thumbsup:  
I've been using the same setup.
Fox Archery "Red Fox"
53# @ 28" 64" longbow
Browning "Safari II"
44# @ 28" 60" Recurve


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