Hi,

Stus calc says my Arrows are 4# to stiff. Some people her also said it was to stiff.

But bareshafting shows good groups with 125 grain heads and if i go up in point weight the bareshafts go further right (Im RH).

A false weak would not increase if you go the right direction would it?

My specs:
Bow:
Bob Lee Sig. TD LB, 62", 56 @ my 29,5" draw, 1/16 past center, 16strand Xcel, 4 small wool silencers, no bowquiver.

Arrow:
CX Her. 350, 31,5", 3x5" Shield, 1/2 inch footing at nock end (5grain), standard insert + 2x 50 grain screw in weight (= 2,5 inch 115grain Insert)

Thanks for youre opinions
Axel

How does it shoot fletched arrows? at worst you can play with the strike plate a little rather than the head weight.

fletched ones fly straight and if i do everything wright where they should. Broadheads fly good, too.

I was just wondering, as this is the only bow/arrow combination ive shot for a long time if i compensate for false arrows.

On my lighter bow i have a arrow that is correct by bareshaft method and stus calc. But i shoot further left with it for the first shots. But this bow has a different handle (LB handle) and further build out strike plate.

you need to treat your inserts as footing in stu's calculator. This comes from Stu.

your insert weight should be 100g + weight of standard insert which is about 11g so you would have an insert weight of 111g.  Since the length is over .50 inch you should mark yes in the footing and use 2.00" as footing with no weight in box

I shoot CE heritage arrows. I have a 30" draw. my bows are in the 50'.  I use the CE250's cut to 30 with 100g brass inserts and it works.

Over the last year there have been lots of discussions about the CE arrows. I have come to the conclusion that individual form plays a large part. There are guys with set ups similar to yours and mine that shoot the 150. Me I showed best results with the 250s. go figure.

If you have not read this    tuning the longbow and recurve  you should.  Helped me a great deal  


best of luck

Stus calc is just a guidline to get you started. Too many other variables in bows,strings,shooting form for anything to be exact. The bottom line is getting your fletched broadheads/arrows to fly strait and hit with your bareshafts. If both are grouping well now with your setup, shoot it.

Ive entered it this way:
Insert weight standard 11grain;
Footing yes
Footing length 1,5 inch (actual length of the screw ins)
Footing weight 100garin;

When i enter like you say i get a perfect result.

Hmmm??!!

ipcjon2 is right. Fred Bear used to tune his bow to the arrow.

And don't get too tied to the gospel of a spine chart.  Slight differences in pressure on your string fingers can affect what spine you need to shoot to get good flight.

If it's close to the recommendation and flying well, leave it alone.

If it shoots good, listen to your bow, not the calculator.  

http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html
-This is all good to know, read this little book and youll be able to trouble shoot yourself.
I have printed this book for everyone that asks me about arrow tuning.

QuoteOriginally posted by rastaman:
If it shoots good, listen to your bow, not the calculator.    

YUP!!!!  

For me, after all the bare shafting, etc. is done the final test is how my broadheads fly. If they fly straight then nothing is broken.

It was Stu who told me how to treat the inserts / footing and I think it is in the instructions too.

I use the chart to get in the ball park and then tune to works for me and the bow.

Form and consistency plays a HUGE part when all else is said and done.