Ok guys, i want a full explanation of how to use the KME to sharpen the Grizzly! I may get some of them to try this year as they now offer them in left bevel and i shoot left wing feathers religiously! I want to know what Diamond hone is used, everything...

Go to Kustom King website they have a video for knife and broadhead sharpeners click on KME.Aloha Ron

Hi Travis,

The first point I'd like to make clear is that both our sharpeners (knife or BHD) are honing tools, not grinding tools, and an "out of the pack" Grizzly is far from ready to be honed. The only stone I've ever seen that was up to the task ...had a motor hooked up to it. You'll need to file them before either sharpener will work. Some guys skip the file and use 80 grit wet/dry automotive sandpaper on a piece of plate glass to set the bevels but, even this is pretty labor intensive. If you're even decent with a file, then that's the way to go. Once the bevels have been set either sharpener will work to get them tuned.

The first thing you'll need is a radius tooth body file (8-9 tpi) or the sandpaper and glass. I'm sure there will be more questions so let's start there.

Ron

Ron,I recently got a DMT Diasharp hone,3"X8",XX coarse,120 mesh and use it with the KME broadhead sharpener.It rips.It establishes that bevel pretty fast,then I go to 220 grit sandpaper and work on through to 2000 grit.

After doing the first one,I decided to back off on the 120 mesh diamond hone just before I got a burr.By the time I got the 120 scratches out of the first one and finished it,I lost 14 grs.The second one,I stopped with the 120 short of getting a burr and by the time I got the 120 scratches out,the burr was there.The second Grizzly only lost 3 grs.

I get a much more consistent edge by using the hone rather than a file.I just am not consistent enough with the file and that cause to much time evening things up when I switch to the KME.Once the 120 diamond hone gets that bevel,each successive grit only takes a few strokes and it goes very fast.

The finished edge is dead flat and true,the full length, and you can see your reflection in it.To resharpen one that has been shot,should take a bare minimum of work as the KME broadhead sharpener should put it right back on the stone exactly at the right angle.

Ron,

What do you mean by "setting the bevel"?  I thought he new Grizzly's were already at the optimum 25 degrees?

I just bought one of your knife sharpeners and am not having much luck with the Grizzly.  Maybe this is why?  

I'm with BearBaiter, looking for a detailed start to finish process for getting these "scary sharp".  Thanks!

The (12) Grizzly 160gr. broadheads I just purchased from Braveheart Archery had the 25-degree bevel.  You can visually see the difference from the previous models manufactured.

I have the deluxe sharpening kit from KME...I just haven't worked on the final edge yet.

The bevel is close to 25 degrees but it isn't ground all the way to the fine edge.You have to take the entire surface of the bevel in a little more till the sharp edge is there.It is hust too much work to do by a regular stone.The bevel is a lot better than the old ones but the edge isn't there yet.

Thanks JimB.  While I have sharpened a few on the machine, I haven't got chance to sharpen any of the new Grizzlies by hand yet but, that's what I had heard...better than they used to be  but still tough.

I have one of the DMT XX-Coarse diamond hones too and with the older grizzlies it still took me a very long time to get the bevels set.

My wife just got one of the new HD Flip video cameras and a real start to finish "How to" is gonna require some video. Gimme a couple days to figure this new camera out and I'll try to shoot a step by step for everyone this weekend.

Ron

That would be awesome.  Thanks Ron!!!

A video would be great- I have had good success with the A&H heads with the KME system.

Bill

Ron, Any update on your instructional video?  Thanks!

Yea Butchie,

We shot the intro and file work but I'm pulling my hair out trying to get it uploaded/saved/edited. Dang computers!!!    Thanks,

Ron

I have a question.  Why do you fellas buy an unfinished broadhead to begin with?

I WILL NOT EVER BY ANY GRIZZLY BROADHEADS AGAIN...!!!!...It is like buying a unpainted car...A gun without ammo..I finally got mine sharp enough to hunt with...Too many other broadheads that are sharp enough out of the box..or you can get sharp in 10 minutes with just a couple of stones,,,

No doubt about it that Grizzlies out of the package are a pain in the neck to sharpen.  But....when you do get one sharpened correctly.....it's done.  If it gets dull all it takes is a little touch up like any other BH but way better.

I sharpen all my own broadheads. I would sharpen them even if they came sharp from the factory. You must touch up your heads during the hunt to keep that perfect edge. Anyone who doesn't check and touch up their heads doesn't understand sharp. When you carry around your arrows in any kind of quiver for a few days things happen. Gary

I can't wait to see video of getting grizzlies super sharp.  I'm sure that we will be able to translate the coming knowledge to work with other sharpening systems.

Here's a link to an earlier thread that shows a jig for setting the bevel.  I can't imagine anything easier and it will be quick, too.

  http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=060487#000000  

Finishing the edge from here will be easy.

Trad-man, personally, I see no purpose for a hunt ready broadhead.  Broadheads need to be shot before being hunted with and are going to need to be sharpened after that.  For the mfg to sharpen the broadhead costs his time and my money and is a waste of both.  JMHO

We all look at things from our own perspectives.  Sharpening broadheads is a fundamental part of my hunt prep and means as much to me as choosing my own stand/hunt site and making my own arrows.  It is a part of the journey.  The more of myself that goes into my hunt, the more personal confidence and satisfaction I receive from it.  Sagebrush and I think a lot alike.

Rick

I don't mine sharping stuff,mater of fact I like doing it,just do not like the exra work with a grizzly head...figured out you need a second bevel on them made a diffrence..we need the sharpested head possible when hunting .I make my own broadhead covers to keep them sharp when in quiver..SOME GUYS JUST NEED A EASIER WAY ...

Ron and JimB,

You both mentioned using sand paper to hone grizzlies.  I have a KME broadhead sharpener, but none of my whetstones are wide enough to handle the long grizzlies.  Extra wide whetstones are pretty expensive, so the idea of using sandpaper sounds attractive (cheaper) to me.  I have two questions:

Ron - Why the need for a piece of plate glass?

JimB - Do you use other grits between 220 and 2000?

Thanks!

P.S. - Ron, still hoping to see your video.