First off, i have killed a few deer with them and i like them alot, but i cant seem to get them as sharp as other heads! Is this just part of it, or can they actually get razor sharp, and if so does anyone have any hints on how to achieve a good edge with the "New" Grizzly heads? Another ? i have is...The head is touted as being good as a bone splitting head, in my best assumption to split bone it would take a very heavy setup and the design wouldnt lend itself to lighter bows/arrows! Any advice?

I recently started using the KME sharpener, before that i was an old school stone/file guy!

As I will have questions to, as someone just gifted me with 12 200 grain glue on's with 6 that have 75 gr threaded addaptors.    

Looks like I will need a real good sharpener, and advice with these as these aint your daddy's broadheads.

Although the head CAN cause splits in bone that is encountered, it CAN also pass clean thru other tissue the same as any other sharp broadhead and cut everything in its path.

If you like them, get them sharp and use them. Decent heads.
ChuckC

A friend of mine shot one through the upper leg bone of a whitetail,breaking the bone in 3 pieces,using a long bow in the low 40 # range.it almost knocked the deer down.He uses what most consider very heavy arrows,app.700 grs.

I shot an antelope last year with one of the 190 gr Grizzlies and a 709 gr arrow out of a 53# Mojo Stik.It hit the heavy end of the humerus bone,just forward of the elbow,severed it,clipped the heart and exited the opposite upper leg but missing the bone on that side.

They can get as sharp as any other broadhead once you get the hang of it.You should be able to find more than one old thread here on how to do it.

I have had good luck using the KME knife sharpener.Recently,I bought a large,3"x8",coarse diamond stone(actually a steel bar,not stone)and have been using it with the KME broadhead sharpener and find it even easier though the diamond stones are expensive.

Whatever method you use you just have to stay with your file or coarsest stone untill you have developed the bevel all the way to the very edge,from front to back and don't progress to the next finer stone till you have developed a burr the full length.Then you can go through your other grits and finish by stropping to remove that final burr.

The ones I've done recently are honed to where you can see your face in them and are as sharp as any blade I have handled.It just takes a little getting used to.

I'm waiting on a new,extra coarse diamond "stone" which I think will speed up the process and if it goes well,I'll post the results.

Check out those KME sharpeners.Ron is more knowledgable on than anyone I know.You have to handle a Grizzly that he has sharpened to believe it.

The Grizzly is a very tough broadhead that holds an edge well.It just takes a little work and care to get the right edge but it is worth it.The new ones make the job easier but it still takes a little effort.Once you get that edge established with the file or coarse stone,it goes a lot quicker from there.

Cottonwood,you have a good friend there.

I used grizzlies for a few years and was able to get them shaving sharp; but not without effort. I tried several methods and finally settled on a 12 in bastard file and file until they are sharp enough to cut hair on your arm or leg-don't stop filing before that.
Then hone on a smooth steel bar or very fine diamond surface. That will result in an extremely sharp head with a bit of practice. What I found is that pretty much all methods work but they all take considerable practice. It is not the easiest head to live with; but once you get the hang of it you will be all set.

Got some new 160 grizzlys and let a friend sharpen one with the KME took him 1 hour for one head.I used a Accusharp and it took 1 minute.His head cut two rubber bands and the one i sharpen cut four rubber bands.If i spend more than 30 seconds per side i can get it to cut 6 rubber bands.