I was wondering when installing the second metal nocking point on the string how snug should it be against my arrow nock ?

I leave a little bit of space,about 1/16 0f in inch.

I wouldn't use metal, floss or serving string works better.  It gives.

Bowmania

I used a couple strands of B-50 string material.  Works great.  I  1/16 or maybe a little less.

I'll answer the question instead of telling you to use a different nock point material.

Althought lots of guys don't like the brass ones they are the most durable, easy to adjust up or down, and the least likely to let you down when the shot is important.  Like the shot of a lifetime at a big elk or something like that.  They do wear out your glove or tab faster than floss does.

Draw your bow with the arrow on and take a look at it.  There shouldn't be any arrow pinch between the nock points.  I think 1/16 to 1/8 is about right but conditions may vary.

the chef

I like the string nock points.Very easy to do .start with a clove hitch and wrap it around twice then a half hitch on one side then a few more wraps then a half hitch on the other side,end it with a square knot and wax it and trim an melt the ends. Or you can use this way from the How to section From Charlie Lamb.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000078

QuoteOriginally posted by calgarychef:
I'll answer the question instead of telling you to use a different nock point material.

Althought lots of guys don't like the brass ones they are the most durable, easy to adjust up or down, and the least likely to let you down when the shot is important.  Like the shot of a lifetime at a big elk or something like that.  They do wear out your glove or tab faster than floss does.

Draw your bow with the arrow on and take a look at it.  There shouldn't be any arrow pinch between the nock points.  I think 1/16 to 1/8 is about right but conditions may vary.

the chef

Not sure if the durability of floss or B-50 is an issue if tied right.  I used them on my wheelie bow towards the end of my tenure in compound shooting and they never slipped or moved one bit.  Haven't failed on my recurve yet either.  

I didn't realize I would be upsetting the nocking point suggestion police.    

I use the metal ones also and a 1/16" gap seems to be about right for me as well.

I use the nock material that I feel like at the time. I'm not a machinist and not terribly anal either so I place the bottom nock with a gap that "looks" right to me. If I have flight problems or other issues I will make changes as needed. I use the brass nok sets lately because I've been working on a lot of bow and string set-ups and it saves me time. I'm lazy.  

Two nock locators is a good idea. High speed photography (Olympic Archery) shows with only one locator the arrow nock may slide down the string upon release differently from shot to shot. There should be a tiny space below the nock and the lower locator otherwise the nock will be pinched (especially with shorter bows and longer draws) resulting in the arrow tending to come off the shelf. I tie (serving or string thead) two on every string. You can go to  www.archeryintheschools.org  to see instructions for tying on a nock locator if you need it. NASP doesn't allow brass locators because of instances, in other archery programs (4-H) where they have come off the string and caused eye injury. Too many millions of kids in NASP (7.1 million so far) to risk even the remote possibility of this happening.

In case you don't want to check out the NASP website. If you want to tie one on without "serving" it on. Start with a surgeon's know at point where you want your nock locator. Then tie a half-hitch above (if top locator know and below if bottom locator)the surgeons and on the opposite of the string. Then tie another half-hitch above and opposite the last one. Alternatively tie 5-7 half-hitches above the first surgeon's knot. Then finish the locator with another surgeon's knot. Then burn (melt) the ends of the string and "mat" them down. Each know should be quite tite to imbed in the center serving.  Some folks put glue on this knot - -the string makers (BCY and Brownell) say the bowstring can break at this point if you put glue on the knot -- the glue makes the bowstring less pliable at that point.

Surgeon's knot (sorrow for typo "surgeon's know").  This knot is like the first knot you tie when tying your shoe -- before making the bow. But you go over and through twice instead of once. This prevents the knot from unraveling when you release tension on the tag ends.

Dumb me but what would be the purpose of double nocks on a traditional bow?

I like to use a metal nock on top and tie either dental floss or B50 string for the lower one.

JamesV,

As Bowwild said in his first post, the nocking point has been photographed at high speed moving down the string upon release.

Winterhawk1960

QuoteOriginally posted by Winterhawk1960:
JamesV,

As Bowwild said in his first post, the nocking point has been photographed at high speed moving down the string upon release.

Winterhawk1960

With all due respect Winterhawk1960, the arrow nock is what moves down the string, not the nocking point.          

Just wanted to clear that up to avoid confusion.

ishoot4thrills,

Good catch !!!!! I think slower than I can type, I guess.                  

Winterhawk1960

Wow!! That's what I love about this site, you ask a question and you guy's answer the hell out of it. I like to read about the different ways guy's apply a second nock for themselves. I only have the brass nocks so I will install one tomorrow and I would like to try serving a nock of my own sometime too. I am going down to Denton Hill this Thrusday just to test shoot bows and will have to pick up some serving material.

Ipcjon2 & Bowwild- thanks for posting those site's, they are surely going to be helpful.

Thanks guy's!

I have singles on some bows and doubles on others; can't say I have noticed any different shooting characteristics.

I'm sure most folks would be happy with a single nock locator. If the nocks are a bit tight or when a low spot is worn where the nock is constantly placed, I doubt if nock fall would happen upon release. However, I just realized another advantage of a nock locator above and below the arrow, especially if you shoot three-fingers-under like I do is you can keep that bottom finger from pressing into the nock causing the shaft to roll away from the side of the sight window.