i have been doing alot of bareshaft planing to get my setup doin right,  im shooting ad trads, so far the spine has come together better than i could have wished, the two groups shoot in line and niether have any side to side kick.
the nock point is a nother whole story.   i started with a standard 3/8 and they showed that it was to high but i heard a little click so it turned out to be way low, as i raised they got better, just when they got pretty good, i quit shooting, then today without moving it the bareshafts are doing the exact oposite, they are going high, i can see in the flight a couple yard out of the bow they go up.  so i started moving it up untill they grouped decent, it ended up at 7/8, but now my fletched arows are begining to have a little kick when at 3/4 they wernt,  i curently do not have any non vented 200 grain broadheads but that is next,
ive heard of people having high nock points with 3 under but i shoot split, i also checked the tiller and both fadeouts measure almost exacly the same.
   I have also noticed the higher the nock point the slower the arow seems to go

   I was thinking that the fatness of the point end of the shaft could cause the need for some hieght but then thought a little more and the skinny end should actualy cause for a little lower point than a paralell 11/32 shaft.

   this is buggin the crap out of me i have never had this much trouble with a nock point.

I'm having the same issues with some Hammerheads.  I'm not certain that my release doesn't have something to do with it.  I shot a few at 35 yds and I can really see them flying nock high and hitting low by about a foot low.  My broadheads and my field tips hit together, but I've still got a wiggle in flight.

KenBeck of BW said some ppl just can't seem to shoot bare shafts very well...i happen to be one of them.

Jer

no matter where my nock point is i always get nock high. i now use OL Adcocks tuning method. works for me.

Are you using one nock or two?  I find one nock lets the arrow be pushed along the string on release giving false tuning readings.

QuoteOriginally posted by ozy clint:
no matter where my nock point is i always get nock high. i now use OL Adcocks tuning method. works for me.

X2 what Clint said    

In some cases it is the pressure you put on the string with your fingers, especially the bottom finger, in some cases it is the tiller of the limbs. If it is not kicking side to side, not much to worry about, just shoot.

Dont forget to re-check your brace height. May be your string streched some.

My nocks always end up high to. Once they are fletched. Flat as can be.

Rich K.

I usally set my final nocking point with fletched shafts after I bareshaft them.

I have a widow that I cannot bareshft tune for anything but can shoot bareshafts out of all my other bows perfectly. I always get a nock high also out of my widow sax. I just finallyt settled on what flew the best.

I have to have a 2 nock set on a widow try the 2 nock set should fix some of your problem.

I have had similar frustrating experiences with bareshafting. I now use a narrow strip of duct tape as my nocking point on the string, loose enough that it can be twisted up or down the string serving. But tight enough to stay put. One piece above the arrow nock and one below. I use these to find my best bareshaft results. Focusing mainly on the arrow being to stiff or to weak and not so much nock high or low. Then I start all over with my fletched arrow and find my nocking point height. For me a 3under shooter, the nocking point that gives perfect bareshaft results nock high or low doesn't work when fletched. After I'm satisfied with things, I remove the tape nocking points and replace it with duel tie in nocking points. I think I'm going to try OL's method next time I tune though.

If all else fails try raising your brace height about 1/4". Arrows bend in the vertical plain as well as horizontal when being shot.

JW

thanks for all the input,  it seems that i should try and stay in the area that makes the fletched arrows shoot the best , and ignore the fact that the bare shafts hit high.  i did find a point where the bares were grouping with the fletched but at that the bare shafts didnt fly any straighter along with the fletched ones flying a little crapy as well.
maybe the whole cant bareshaft arowdynamics is true for finding the nock point.

I always fine tune with broadheads. They will show you nock issues as well as spine issues also.
SL

ok i got a eclipse bh weighed up to 190 i figure for nock point thats close enough,  i only had one, its spins true, and groups with the field points with perfect flight.  i think ill stay with that, even though the bare shafts still kick nock down and hit high.

So, your bareshafts are showing your nock point is too low. How much high are they hitting? At what distance are you shooting?