I have a 25in draw and I will have 2 recurves, one in the near future javascript:void(0). A Shrew Lil Favorite  @ 55#, and Kohannah Kurve @ 58#. I plan on using the same arrows, hammerhead lites weighing anywhere from 550-615gr (tip, 100gr insert included).

I plan on having these arrows made up. With the arrow cut to 27 inches, will this be too stiff out of my bows, and is the weight 550-615 too heavy for 55-58# bows? Is 250 or 300gr up front too much on a such a small draw/short arrow?

Thanks
Bryan

I'd caution you not to get them cut any specific length, but to cut them .25 - .5 inch at a time as you tune.  

If you cut them first, you may end-up with a bunch of short tomato stakes.

What he said.  H

Yep,  Start tuning at full length and only cut .25 inch at a time until your close and then .125 inch until their perfect.  Your arrow weight and high foc should give great penetration.  Never be afraid to shoot an arrow that sticks out past the back of the bow 3 to 5 inches if that is what it takes to get it to fly perfectly.

Are the bow weights going to be at your draw length or are they at 28 inches.  Makes a big difference in the answers your looking for.

The bow weights are going to be made for my 25in draw. I do not have tools at my current residence, so I do not know what to use to cut carbons, I was planning on them being ok at that length

You have about as much chance of winning the lottery as cutting carbons to length before tuning and having them fly right.

Here's what I use to cut carbons.  Wear a mask, you don't want to breathe carbon dust.

 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307

By the way ... you'll need an abrasive cut-off wheel, not the metal wheel the saw comes with.  I use the 3" wheels and they work fine.

What type of blade? Does harbor freight sell the one your talking about?

Mr.Magoo: I'd like to know where you get the abrasive wheels too. Does Harbor Freight carry them to fit that saw? I have the same saw and cut my carbons with the metal wheels but they dull very quickly.

Guttooth71:  I agree with everyone else about cutting your arrows as you tune. Have you ever used Stu's calculator? It can be found  here  and you can use it to get a pretty good idea of what you can do and gives you a good starting point. When I am making up arrows I usually find what type of head/weight I want to shoot and work from there. I start with full length shafts and keep cutting them down as I tune until I find the right length that flies great. If you want more weight up front you can always add brass inserts and then start cutting the shafts shorter again until they tune correctly.

I also don't think you can have too much weight up front and I like a heavy arrow as well. If you are happy with the speed and trajectory of the arrow then by all means shoot them heavy! I am shooting a similar setup as you (Super Shrew Scout, 54@28 and I draw 28") and am shooting arrows that are about 650-675 Grains finished. These arrows are 32" Gold Tip 75/95's with 280 grains up front... I have about 4 inches of arrow sticking past the riser and it does not bother me any  :D

Looks like I will be cutting my own arrows

I would also like to know where to get the wheels.  I have the HF saw, and haven't used it, yet.

the cutoff tool is nice, but all you need is a simple dremel and a carbide cutting wheel.  you can do this free hand, no jig needed - you eye will line it all up nicely. cut in front of your length marked line and leave the line proud, then true up (if needed) with a sanding wheel or emery board.  you will amazed at how accurate the cuts will be.

as to the topic's question, only testing will give you the answers you seek - all opinions are guesses at best.

I agree with Rob. I use a dremel and it works great. I put masking tape around the arrow where I want to cut to help make it square.

If ye be cuttin' carbons, then get yourself a face mask and wear it while doing the cutting.  Carbon dust can hang in the air awhile also....like asbestos fibers.  Be careful.

One of the advantages of a short draw is that you can cut your arrows down real far.  Then load up the front with weight until they tune.  If the arrow ends up too heavy go down in spine weight, cut to 1in past your draw, and add point weight.  This method will give you the shortest arrow with the most foc.  This makes them more compact and the extra foc makes them fly better and penetrate better.  So I'd say get a test kit with the arrows cut to 26in, and tune for your bows.

Iluv2bowhunt, if you cut your arrows to 29in, you could go down to a 55-75 shaft size and get 23.5% foc with a 585 grain arrow instead of 20.5% and a 660 grain arrow.  The point weight would be identical to your current one so you wouldn't have to change your broadheads.  Or you could cut your current arrows to 29 and put 400grains up front for about 26%foc and a 750grain arrow.

Guys ... These are the disks I use with mine  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44812.

They also sell them on the big auction site.  The ones above are 3" which means you have to remove the wheel 'shield' on the saw to use them.  They sell 2" wheels on the auction site (which are an exact fit with the 3/8 arbor).

Wear a mask and eye protection.

Thanks Mr.Magoo!

I spent a lot of money on carbons by cutting them to my desired length.  Now I set up and find the right length for good flight.  The posts above have really covered it well.