Okay I have a serious arrow flight problem. I am shooting a LH kohannah kurve 49# @ 29" and my draw length is 29" its about + 1/8" of being center shot.

I am shooting CE heritage 250 arrows. I can't get them to fly nice for nothing they tend to wobble side to side mostly. I have tried leaving them full length and adding weight on the front from 125 grains all the way up to 375 grains and everything in between and they won't fly straight. I've adjusted the brace height two twists at a time all the way from 7 1/4" to 8 1/4". It gets a little better sometimes than others but I can never get rid of it. I finally cut them  down to 31" with 225 grains up front and it's a little better but it's still there. I finally sanded out one of the nocks because I thought it seemed a little tight and it didn't seem to make much difference. I'm wondering if I'm not getting a clean release or some sort of form issue. If it's a release issue I'm wondering if going to four feathers would help? Any sort of input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks RC

Have you tried bare shaft tuning?

If so.....what are your results?

You most likely need a .500 spined shaft. A 150 cx is about right. Personal experience for me is that with carbons, I tend to use the next lighter spine that what the "experts" recommend.
I am shooting a Timberhawk recurve that is cut 1/8" past center, 52#@28" and I can shoot either a .500 spine at 29" with 250 gr. up front or a .400 spine at 29 1/2" with 350 gr. up front. At least with a lighter spine, you can build the plate out to compensate if neccessary.
Not sure where you are from me, but you are welcome to try a couple of my .500 spine shafts if you want.
Mike

I've done some bareshafting and they fly almost nicer than the ones with feathers. The 175 grain tip full length bareshafts hit real similar to the feathered shafts. Even the full length ones with 225 grains up front bare shafted decent but if anything were a little weak. Thanks for the offer mike but you are about 3hrs from where I live.

I'm not so sure you're over-spined (especially at full-length).  I shoot CX 250's (.373 spine, I think) out of my Silvertip @ 52# (my DL) w/150gr. up front & the std. insert.

I'm also not understanding what your bare shaft results are telling you.  If you're not getting the erratic arrow flight when you're bare shafting, why are you getting it when you're not?

I think it is too stiff of an arrow for a 49#@29 longbow that is cut off center.I would try like said a CE 150 Heritage.

Whoa......

Longbow?  Cut short of center?  Yeah....you very well may be over spined (I had no idea the type bow you were shooting).

Still perplexed with the diff. in bare shaft and fletched flights.

Did I understand correctly that your bow is cut an 1/8" shy of center? If that is right, there is a 1/4"+ difference in between my bow,GMMAT's bow and your bow.....BIG difference!
GMMAT-A Silvertip is pretty much a "high performance" 'curve, mine a little less so and probably similar the the Kohannah. Throw the center shot factor in there and it's really hard to say. Last Kohannah I owned shot woodies that were spine for the bow weight...60# bow with 60# wood shafts.
Rock Crusher- PM me if you want to try my arrows. Got some woodies that may shoot as well! Mike

oooops! I type slow! Mike

Sorry guys I wasn't very plain the Kohannah Kurve is a recurve.

I am completly confused as well on the bareshaft thing. I will tell you though that the bareshaft thing looses me very easy.

My bow is cut to center but then it has a leather strike plate on it that is about an 1/8" thick does that help?

If your bareshafting shows proper spine then the wobble is probably something else.  If your featherless arrows fly "straight" but your feathered arrows wobble then there might just be something with your release or nocking.

With 375 grns up front you should have noticed a spine improvement if your shafts are too stiff and improved arrow flight.  

Go back to whichever point weight gave you good bareshafting and work on your release.
Try flipping the arrow 180 degrees on the string.  Try different grips on the bow, low wrist, etc.  Don't shoot too many arrows at once...just a few then rest for awhile.

RC,
If your bareshafting gives erratic results it could be that you are not a good enough shot to make it work correctly.  Maybe the bow is too heavy for you and throwing your form or release.
Ideally, get some pics or vids of your shooting and get with Terry Green for advice.

RC,

First, your 250 shafts are likely way too stiff for your set-up.  You might try the 150, the GT 35-55, or the Vapor 2000 if you want to stay with carbon.

Next, when bare shaft tuning remember that when the arrow is fletched it will "stiffen" the shaft, thus causing the arrow to hit left for a right handed shooter.  If you bare shaft tune for a slightly weak shaft...(I like mine 4-5" weak), your fletched shaft should hit dead center.  Also, remember not to cant your bow while tuning.

As for the wobbling shaft, look at your nock point first and adjust it up or down to see if this helps. Also, adjust your brace height...try raising it a bit.

I think that all of the above will get your arrows flying the way they should.  If not, let us know and we'll continue to help until you have worked the bugs out of your set up.

Claudia

This might sound crazy but happened to me the other day. I had changed my knocks and fletch was turned not going in crease in bow between shelf and side plate. This made my arrows kick sideways out of bow. readjusted them so fletch didn't hit side plate of bow problem went away. Also I shoot aprox. same poundage and setup but use CE 150. I am about 25 miles from your location and am willing to help you can email me at deanlintz61@yahoo.com  I am in Constantine MI.

You are bareshaft tuning and they seem to fly Correctly?
What distance?
Who fletched the shafts and what configuration?

Just wanted to add that one time I fletched 3 arrows and left 3 bare for bareshaft tuning.
Unbeknownst to me at the time, I had used my Bitz left wing clamp and setup, with right wing feathers.
Not to say that anyone else could possibly be as unfortunate as I to have such a similar experience,
but!!!!
The amazing results of this mistake were,
acceptable results bareshaft.
Wobble, Wobble, Wobble fletched.
Amazingly, the fletched arrows did seem to straighten out at about 15-20 yds, but would not group with the bareshaft.
I've kept those arrows in case I ever find a crooked bow!!!!!!!!!!! Really      

I believe you are right on the edge from my experience.  

I shoot 250's out of a 49@28 and my draw is 30.
My shafts are cut at 31 I use 125 point and 100g brass insert.  
I used the 250 because I could not get the 150's to fly right.  A season later and I have started putting 150's back in the mix.

I am convinced it was my form that tweaked the 150's. I can now bareshaft and tune the 150s to the bow by slight teak of shaft and dropping the insert down.  I carry both in my quiver.

I would bet the farm that your shafts are too stiff.  If your fletched arrows are fishtailing to whole way to the target it is the first direction that the nock goes that will tell you what your problem is.  If its left at 5, straight at 10 and then right at 15 and you shoot LH your spines are too stiff.  I would focus more on bare shafts once you get close.  If you are + center cut with #50 draw you would probably be good with 500 shafts with 200+ grains up front.

Thanks for all the info guys I'll keep working on it.

My fletching is 3-5" right wing feathers fletched in a full right helical. I do them myself.

I was bareshafting at 20-25yds

RC

Plugging your numbers into stu's calc, your 31" arrow w/ 225 gr point, 11 grain insert, 9 gr nock w/ 3-5" feather is giving a Dyanamic spine of 50#.

Your bow is showing 51.5# with a FF string.  49# w/ B50

You are real close.  Might just need a brace height adjustment.

Mike