http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=078155;p=1

I can get them sharp with a file but this takes it to a whole new level. The key is ensuring the zero bevel side is flat. Works really good and only takes a few minutes

JW

Oops , sorry. Looks like that site no longer exists.

JW

QuoteOriginally posted by Richie Nell:
What can a double bevel head do a single can't?
break and twist through bone
What can a single bevel do a double can't?
nothing

You guys know moe than I do about this but simply put..
Is that correct?

I think you have that backwards.  Dr. Ashby's data shows that the single bevel breaks bone by torqueing and splitting it and the double bevel just tries to push through - so the single bevel needs less force to get through the same bone, which increases the probability of getting through and into the vitals.

Arne

ArneJ,
Yea I noticed that..I mentioned it in my next post.

I thought the question was how to sharpen a single bevel...    :confused:

Like Vaughn said, first remove any factory burr from the unbeveled side of the blade. Use a file or coarse stone to do this, just make sure that it's flat and true. We do this to remove any factory defects and so that we can tell when we've raised our own burr later on. Then work the bevel side with a file till you can both see and feel a small burr running continuously from tip to heel of the blade (on the unbeveled side). At this point you can continue to work the bevel side through as many grits of stones as you like. As you polish, the burr will get slightly bigger and heavier. When the bevel side is polished to your satisfaction, all that's left to do is to flip the head over and do the minimum necessary to the unbeveled side to remove the burr. The burr can be removed with either a smooth file or stone but either way, I like to move the stone or file "into the edge" same as you would sharpen a knife. This creates a shearing action which eliminates the possibility of chasing the burr back and forth from one side of the blade to the other. Soon as the burr is gone, strop both sides on plain brown corrugated cardboard and it should be plowing hair.

Ron

Are they worth it?? If your willing to pay the asking price AND you see an improvement over your current BH.....New things/ideal come and goes....I tryed them (single bevels) shot one deer with them and went back and put on my old "Z's!!! I'll stick with them for now.

longarrow,

grizzlies are 24 dollars for six broadheads...hardly a budget busting purchase by any stretch of the imagination.

They sharpen like a chisel...Ron (Sharpster) gave you a perfect description of how to do it.

Dear ArnieJ, Richie and other interested readers.  
It's not often that I visit the Pow Wow because after being on the computer and phone all day, I need a break.  This thread first started with a sharpening question but then moved on to the issue of single vs. double bevel broadheads. Everybody seems to have an opinion on the subject.  Some think that it is just a passing fad thought up by some marketing wizard. Some think otherwise.  So I thought that I would add the following.   Click on the below link and read about what an orthopedic surgeon/bowhunter has to say about the bevel issue.  He gives his perspective from the operating room... and the field.

 http://www.alaskabowhunting.com/Single-Bevel-Chisel-Shatters-Bone-W40.aspx

Ed, with alldue respect,  I am guessing that there are a number of tools available to the surgeon to cut thru OR shave bone that won't cause destruction, including variable saws.  They have been doing knee and other full joint replacements for years.

The point that some folks are trying to bring up has nothing to do with discrediting Ed Ashby's work, on the contrary, I can't think of a singe person that disagrees with it.

It has to do with the rest of the story.  The rest of the game if you will.  Even with a high power rifle you don't TRY to shoot the animal in its leg or paunch.  There is a reason for that.  

Archery (OK bowhunting) is a game of placement, of sharp broadheads and of getting close enough stealthily enough to make that arrow placement happen.  It is not a matter of just shooting the animal and breaking bones and then make a follow up kill shot.  Frankly that is why I almost never gun hunt anymore.

We try to do it right the first time, often because we only get a first time.

Arrow placement IS AS important, no, MORE important than any quality a broadhead can have.  

As I recall the first thread indeed asked about sharpening, then went on to ask if they (single bevels) are worth it. . .  and the debate began.

Nobody seems to state that they are not worthy and well qualified.  Just that there is more to the game.
ChuckC

I've taken big game with both and it all still comes down to shot placement. Doubles are easier to sharpen so I believe. But I'm going to stay with my singles if for no other reason than to start a discussion like this one at my local club.

Richie, I believe you are stating the facts in reverse order. Dr. Ashby and others research has shown that single bevels "break and twist through bone".

The reason I asked this in the first place is that after a shoulder injury I have dropped poundage in draw weight,  In doing this I am also moving from the big SNUFFER to a two blade thus the question

Is this still on topic?

Jim,
Yea I know....I made reference to that in my next two posts.

To address the original post; I never had much luck getting single bevel broadheads sharp so I gave it up as a bad job. Single bevel have served me well.