There seems to be a lot of interest in this case... maybe more than in the bow! When I finished the bow, which I think you know is documented on the Old Phartt's Archery site, I added a page on the case. I'm going to go ahead and transfer that material here for you, with a little additional comment.

First off, let me say that I designed the case and cut it out. I didn't anticipate any problem sewing it on my 1926 foot powered Singer industrial sewing machine. I'm very experienced with sewing machines and quilting and normally, this would be no problem for me. However, the 10 oz canvas duck I wanted to use turned out to be incredibly heavy and the whole thing ends up being a lot larger than you'd think when you see it rolled up. My machine would stitch it, but I couldn't handle and control it in my sewing space.

My wife has spent almost 30 years handling marine upholstery material and has a much heavier duty machine and a 5' x 9' feedout table behind it. She took over the sewing for me, much to my relief. I love the 10 oz duck and it's close to bullet proof, but if I were doing it again, I would probably use 7 oz duck or possibly Sunbrella. (Note:  If using an artificial fabric like Sunbrella, be aware that, unlike cotton canvas, its surface is abrasive. You'll want flannel sleeves for the limbs.)  

One thing that made this all a lot easier was the bow size. Since it's a 61" bow, the two pieces are each about 31" long (the hinge sticks out). The canvas came in 36" width, so I just based the whole thing on that. I cut my arrows to 28", so obviously, everything would just lie on the material, with the only cutting needed being to get the length and the flap pieces. It was a bit tricky making sure the tubes were big enough for the limbs and the pvc arrow tube to slide in, but it becomes obvious you need to "hump" up extra material to make the tubes; a little practice effort establishes how much. Adding the velcro'ed straps and handle is just a matter of measurement and, again, controlling that very stiff material. Anyway, here is the whole presentation from the web site. With these pictures, i think you could design the same thing for yourself:

Bow Case for the Connexion Bow

Of course, the advantage of the take down bow is portability and ease of traveling with it. This seemed to call for a case. I had been intrigued by a picture of a roll up case for a three piece TD, so I thought I'd try to make one for this two piece. One advantage would be that the case, being long enough for the limbs, would also be long enough to carry arrows as well.

I got some 10 oz canvas duck, which is only slightly thinner than the armor on a Humvee. I tried to sew it with my industrial treadle machine, but it was just too stiff for me to control. Now, there are industrial sewing machines and there are industrial sewing machines. If you think of mine as a Ford F 250, then the Juki machine that my wife uses in her marine upholstery business is a Kenworth. It has powered fabric feed and an actual brake, for crying out loud! She is also used to handling stiff material in very large pieces, so when she offered to do the sewing for me if I patterned and cut out, I was one happy camper.

The design I came up with is very simple, a big canvas roll with end flaps and three tube openings, one for each limb and one for a pvc tube for arrows. Some miscellaneous gear can be just laid in under the flaps and rolled up with the whole unit. Afterward, she asked me if I had any sheet metal projects in mind. Here's the result:




Arrow tube is in the middle, limb tubes top and bottom. Arrow tube will hold a dozen arrows easily, or a rolled up soft leather Lakota quiver with arrows in it. Brace and glove just get folded in.








Pretty neat, huh?


Dick


I hope this extra info helps...  

I have asked Ann to make an actual layout pattern for this, with full measurements for everything, like the positioning of the strap and handle attachments,etc.  She's backed up with work right now, but hopefully will come up with something fairly soon.  Believe me, it's worth waiting for her to do it.  Not only does she pattern yachts for a living, but you can read her printing!

It's much better than "neat". That's premeir pro front to back.

There's been so much interest in this case, on several lists/boards, that I am going to do a "project page" on it, i.e. build another one, with a pattern and step by step photos/instructions/measurements.  I'll do this with lighter material and on a standard home type machine, so you will know that it can be done without the industrials.    Of course, I do need to note that for me, a "standard home type machine" is cast iron, with all machined parts and gears, was made some time between 1890 and 1950 and never met electricity.   These old machines, while not industrials, are stronger than anything made today.    Actually, there hasn't been an honest home sewing machine made since 1966.  The best you can buy today isn't worth the powder it'd take to blow it up... But that's another story.  I just finished that bow and Christmas is rolling over us, so it may not be till after Christmas that I get to this, but I'll get 'er done and let you know when it goes up.

QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
isn't worth the powder it'd take to blow it up...  

You know when you hear or read a phrase that you just KNOW you're going to use at every given opportunity?

         

Great Info!  I've got two three-piece take-downs I want to make cases for.  One recurve and a longow.

I'm going to start looking for material and make a plan.

Please post here when the new build-along comes up.

Thanks,

Marvin

QuoteI'll do this with lighter material and on a standard home type machine, so you will know that it can be done without the industrials.  

Now see, that's where I'm going to run into problems.  My mother-in-law has a "civilian" machine that probably won't handle it.

I guess I'll just have to improvise.

Very clever idea. Thanks for the pics and description.

Nice case for a T/D,well done!