I've noticed that Easton shafts with glue-on nocks tend to sell for a bit less than shafts with adjustable super nocks.  Seems like I should be able to cut the tapered ends off and install super nocks instead.  Anyone ever tried this?  Any problems or tricks a guy should know about?  I've got lots of bushings and super nocks salvaged from damaged arrows - may as well put them to use.

Never tried this myself. Only thought off the top of my head is that the cut you make on the nock end has to be REALLY square. Curious to hear how it goes.

i have been doing this for about 4 years now with all aluminum shafts that still have the conventional nock system.you can now get the unibushing for about any alum.shaft.no problems changing them over.after cutting the swadge off,i debur the cut on the inside.also another thing i do is thread all my inserts so they will accept the gold tip weights,ie,10,20,50 grains,that way i can add weight to the point if needed,all it takes is a 8/32 tap.regards,robert              

Yarrggghhhhh!    
I go out of my way to buy shafts with the swaged nock ends so I can use my glue-ons.

If you are sawing 2013s I will scream again.
Killdeer  

Swage nocks are garbage,and I detest using them unless it's a woodie shaft.Uni bushings are the best improvement easton has come out with for aluminums.I've done this to just about every set of arrow I've ever owned.

One tip I can give you is if you look at the tapered end where the nock is,you'll notice there is a taper before the swage.Make sure you cut far enough past that taper,otherwise the inside diameter of the shaft will be small due to the swage end forming.You'll just have to take a little more off with the next cut.Check the fit of the bushings BEFORE you go to glue them.    (Ask me how I know...    )

QuoteOriginally posted by vtmtnman:
Swage nocks are garbage,and I detest using them unless it's a woodie shaft.Uni bushings are the best improvement easton has come out with for aluminums.I've done this to just about every set of arrow I've ever owned.

One tip I can give you is if you look at the tapered end where the nock is,you'll notice there is a taper before the swage.Make sure you cut far enough past that taper,otherwise the inside diameter of the shaft will be small due to the swage end forming.You'll just have to take a little more off with the next cut.Check the fit of the bushings BEFORE you go to glue them.     (Ask me how I know...     )

How far from the end do you have to cut? I also dislike the swage end. I love the uni bushing system. I would like to try shooting a 2020, but it only comes in a Legacy series.

Sorry Killdeer - Hate to offend another Virginian.  At least it's not 2013s going under the saw!

Thanks twotimer and vtmtnman!  Great information.

measure from the front toward the back,mark what length you want and saw.when you add the unibushing and nock you will gain a 1/2" more,so if you wanted a 29" arrow,measure front the front of insert 28 1/2",saw,then when you add unibushing and nock you will have A 29" arrow.hope this is't confusing.killdeer,my last 2 dozen 2013s were the real tree hardwoods,already had the unibushing and nocks.they have been my go arrows for o so long.regards,robert              

Twotimer - Thanks again.  Your last post saved me from cutting both ends!  Have you ever just put the unibushing up front and shot the shafts backwards?

Dang – I need to get out more. Never heard of aluminum shafting without swaged nock ends.

Where does one find these uni- bushings?

Man, I need to get out from under my rock...8^)

All the Easton XX75 Camo Hunters I've purchased in the last couple of years have come with uni bushings and super nocks installed.  You can get the nocks and uni bushings from Easton:

Nocks:  http://www.eastonarchery.com/store/category/10  

Bushings:  http://www.eastonarchery.com/store/category/14

3Rivers and Kustom King probably have them too.

" Have you ever just put the unibushing up front and shot the shafts backwards? "

Broadheads will cut the string, and the nocks split when they hit the target.

Killdeer  

Killdeer - HA!  Good one.    
I was thinking more along the lines of "unkilling" a deer.  You know, shoot one with a regular shaft, then shoot it again with a backward one if you change your mind.

boog21,yes,you can put the unibushing in the front of the shaft and measure from the valley of the nock back,cut and install insert.remember to debur any shaft you cut.of course you can only do this on parallel alum.shafts.some of the really high end aluminum,aluminum composite shafts are barrel tapered.robert.              

I think I'll stick to swaged arrows. I've had two almost robinhoods this week alone. A little touchup with the file, a new nock, and I'm ready to go. I'm assuming that with a unibushing setup, I'd have been out two arrows. Am I correct?

Twotimer - Thanks again.  Youve been a great help.      

Akbowbender - I've had one "Robin Hood" with a uni bushing, and yes, that was it for the arrow, but what a conversation piece!  I've also had a few close calls that damaged the nock - just popped in a new nock and kept shooting.

Sorry didn't get back in time to answer your question.Looks like you got fixed up anyways.

What I don't like about the uni bushing is the narrow nock groove compared to the glue on classic nocks. I use different strings with different center servings to reconcile the difference. Night Wing, you will want to buy 1916 uni bushings to fit the 2020's.
Tim

I'm with you Killie.. I thought I was Hi Tech with my AO shafts and florescent nocks., and I refuse to make special strings for special nocks, got too much stuff in the man cave anyway.
Firm believer in K.I.S.S. here.