Do you start shooting your 3 fletched arrows right away or after you have bareshafted for awhile and are closer to the right length that works with the weight you choose for up front? In other words. Is there a point to putting inserts in then pulling and cutting over and over when your bareshafting should get you much closer? Then cut your fletched ones and start shooting all 6? A little low right, correct. Thanks, Garlin.

QuoteDo you start shooting your 3 fletched arrows right away or after you have bareshafted for awhile and are closer to the right length that works with the weight you choose for up front?

I dont shoot fletched arrows until I've completed bare shafting.

 

Quote
In other words. Is there a point to putting inserts in then pulling and cutting over and over when your bareshafting should get you much closer?

I don't understand this question.

 

QuoteThen cut your fletched ones and start shooting all 6? A little low right, correct. Thanks, Garlin.

Bare shafting will get you "close" (close enough for FP's).  Once "there".....I don't shoot bare shafts any more.  I only shoot fletched arrows.

I downloaded all this Dr. Ashby info off of Alaskabowhunting's website and that is how it says to do it. Shoot 3 fletched and 3 bare at the same time and compare groups to make adjustments. That would tell me that every time I cut a bareshaft I would in turn have to cut a fletched one. That's all I know. The instructions I have. So that being said. All I have to do is bareshaft untill they are slightly low and right and the fletching should take care of the rest. Or for a question. Where do you bareshaft your arrows to when you stop and say "ok, I'm ready to fletch them?

acsbows.com

If I understand you correctly. Whatever you do to a bareshaft you do to the fletched shaft. So if I shoot all six arrows several times as far away as I can to group the 3 fletched shafts and the 3 bare shafts hit consistantly right (Im right handed) then my shaft are weak and I do one of two things I either cut all six shafts ( I cut 1/4" at a time) and re-shoot or I reduce point weight on all six. You allways shoot the same point weight and length of each arrow. I'm not sure I can shoot good enough to see slightly weak but if they are close I fletch up the 3 bare shafts and put on my broadheads making sure all point wights are the same and that is were I fine tune. I hope this helps.

Terry

I wonder if Howard, Maurice, Chief, Fred, Ben, Byron, Ishi, Saxton, Art, and all the other "GREATS" bareshafted.

What T Folts said.  This method works perfectly every time.  When you get your arrows grouping the same or the bare shafts slightly low and right you are in the money.  Glue fletching and broadheads on the bare shafts and fine tune.

I have the same info as the acs website. I am shooting a 50# 28 Kota Killum. I bareshafted some Grizzlystik 500 Woodies with standard insert and 150 up front. Started with 32" shaft, shaft only, 3-5" slight offset,ended up 31 1/4. They fly great. I would prefer the overall length of 33" to be shorter. They shoot great but alot of arrow in my window. I took 6 arrows starting at 31 1/4 used a 4-4" tight right, wraped them all and fletched 3. Started the 6 arrow bareshaft planning and here are 2 pictures. Arrows were shot at 15 yards. I know I changed the rear, but with twice as much weight up front I would have figured they would fly right and I could have finished with shorter arrows. They say grizzlystiks have a differential spine. Does that have anything to do with length? Can you just cut them off anywhere reasonable? I just don't get how the changes didn't seem to affect the flight at all. I am confused. Thanks, Garlin.

For years I fletched up my 65/70 wood shafts with 3 Raptor cut feathers, put on whatever broadhead I felt like shooting, and killed things with them.  Now I shoot carbons, have about $1000 worth of different brands and sizes, and I'm constantly tinkering with something to see if it works better.

There's a whole lot of wisdom in the question Phil asked!

 

Apparently I can't resize anymore either. See how long they last.

completely off the subject, but is belleville near east st louis?

Yes sir up on the hill above it. I am a little farther out than that.

Try moving back to 20 yards or 25 would be better. 15 yards is kinda close for this work.
I suspect your shafts are close. If you still get the same results fletch up the other 3 and put on broadheads and check them. I use fletch tape for this and steam them off if I need to remove them.
PS:I would adjust your nock slightly others may not but I would if it were me.

I used fletch tape on these. I will also move back farther tomorrow night and post the difference. My draw is 27 1/2 and I just wish I could make these shorter. These are the only carbons I have to play with right now. Thanks.

After sleeping on it one thought came to mind. I'm not starting with a weak enough spined arrow to be able to shorten it. Using the bareshaft planning method. Maybe.

thats what i thought. i got some family that lives up that way. good luck tuning your arrows

ttt

With wood, I shoot my bare shafts at about 10 yards into soft foam until I get them shooting nearly straight in, the barest fudge nock high, then fletch up the shafts and shoot broadheads to confirm. If the broadhead arrows shoot perfectly, I'm done! So far they always have. This has worked for me for the last 15 years. Make sure the brace height and nocking point are right, before adjusting for spine. It doesn't work otherwise.

QuoteOriginally posted by SELFBOW19953:
I wonder if Howard, Maurice, Chief, Fred, Ben, Byron, Ishi, Saxton, Art, and all the other "GREATS" bareshafted.

You can bet they tuned their gear.


You can try taking some length off of those shafts.  In my tuning, the length of a carbon seems to make less tuning difference than the tip weight.  Just go slow and work one bare shaft until you see the shorter shaft start to stray.

What more are you hopeing for?  Those bare shafts group with the fletched.  Your all done.  go hunting, have fun.