Does a high FOC make bare shaft tuning more difficult. I seem to be having more trouble than usual. I just moved to carbons with a high FOC and am having troubles tuning them just right.

I am doing the same thing.  I have 400gr on the tip of a Hammerhead.  They grouped better bare shaft then fletched POC.  I think high FOC helps.

I've spent a good deal of time bare shaft tuning but I haven't played with extreme front of center shafts.

If your going for extreme FOC, you're going to have to start with a shaft that is considered too stiff in spine, under conventional measurements. Otherwise, your bare shaft will fly nock left (right hand shooter)as soon as you you start adding too much foreward weight.

My feathered shafts seem to fly well. My bare shafts seem to want to dive down when I shoot them at 20yds. I've adjusted my nocking point lower as per O.L.and it really didn't help. I have recently shifted to three under, but the feathered shafts fly well as I have said. I can't go down much further with my nocking point.

Are you a right hand or left hand shooter?

When you shoot the bare shaft is it flying through the air with the back of the arrow to the left, right or in line with the field point?

Right, to the left

Take a look at  www.bowmaker.net/tuning  for the write up by O.L.Adcock.
I am in the middle of this too, and found that I could not lower the nock point any more, and it was not helping. I found in this source mentioned above that the problem was that the nock point was too low to start with, so it helped to raise it. It said the low nock point causes the tails of the arrows to "kick" up.
Hope that helps you like it did me.

Whoops, that is  www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm
Try that.

In my experience, bare shaft tuning indirectly establishes the correct FOC point for a given bow, shooting style and shaft spine.

If you're shooting quality carbons, the bare shaft process will eatablish the best FOC point for that make and size shaft. By best, I'm talking best or most foregiving arrow flight.

When you find this point, the bare shaft will fly as straight as your fletched arrow. If you move the FOC foreward or behind this point, your bare shaft will not fly through the air with the nock in line with the point.  

If your bare shaft is not flying as stright as your fletched arrow and field point, chances are your broadheads will fish tail.

Sounds like your spine is too weak. You can correct this by:
1. Removing some of the weight up front.
2. Shorten the length of the shaft. Remove small amounts and recheck. I usually remove in 1/8 inch increments.
3. Go with a stiffer spined shaft.

My one buddy(Oldskool on here) says that EFOC is playing hell with his bare shaft tuniing.

-Charlie

I find efoc makes it easier to tune. Fletched shafts still fly pretty good with field points with efoc even if the spine is off. I like to start with a weak full length arrow and the point weight I want then shorten the arrows a little at a time until the bare shaft hits with fletched. Actually I end up with the bare shafts grouping slightly to the right and lower than fletched, 1-2" seems to work well, since fletching will stiffen the arrow. Of course final adjustment is made shooting fletched shafts with field points and broadheads.

Lower your point weight 50-100gr and see if that moves the impact to the left, then you know for sure its weak and you need to shorten length for the original point weight, false readings can be had from bareshafts that are way off in spine.

I agree with katman about the 1-2" right impact with bare shafts. When I get to that point...I fletch.

When you guys talk about 1-2" low right for the bare shafts,at what distance?

As I stated in my original post, I recently switched from split finger to 3-under. I decided to bareshaft the same shafts using split finger. The shafts didn't dive. In fact the bare shafts flew really well. I was getting real good groups with fletched and bareshafts.

My problem seems to be with my 3-finger under release. I don't know why, but it seems to be why I was having so much problem.

It may be your bow that is the problem. I shoot a Black Widow and they are specifically tillered for split finger or three under. Your bow may be the same, I honestly don't know but it is a thought.

I would be very surprised if you could get the same bare shaft to fly straight shooting both split and three under. If I change so much as the location of my stringe silencer, my bare shafts reacts. If I remove my bow quiver, The bare shaft reacts. The slightest change in my release or form, the bare shaft reacts.

If I begin to notice a problem with my shooting, out comes the bare shaft. It tells me if my form is poor, if my bow needs adjustment or if I'm just having a bad day. I think the bare shaft is a great tool to keep the bow and shooting form tuned. Good Luck.

Jimb, 20 yds.

Toxo, try different finger pressure shooting three under, you can really change point of impact with that.

Raising the nock point will adjust for tiller difference going to three under.

Yep a bareshaft will point out any flaws in form or tuning. If my shooting goes sour first I check bow setup; brace height, nock point, tiller, silencer placement and poundage also the arrows and nock fit, if all are good then its me and I work with the bareshaft and fletched to straighten it out.