I used hot melt to build the BH's I wanted....not knowing if I'd need a lighter or heavier adaptor.  Turns out, they're fine.  This was also my first stint with hot melt...so I might not have used enough.  But, 4 out of 6 have worked loose.

So what are you guys using to build your BH's that you use adaptors with?

Thanks a lot.

jb weld

Jeff, I use hot melt most of the time with great success.  Two part epoxy and JB weld as mentioned work well too.

It is critical to clean out the inside of your points first, or the manufacturing crud residue will ruin your bond.  If you're using steel adapters, you need to clean those too.

Iso alcohol (not rubbing) or acetone works well for cleaning.

Thoroughly clean the adapters with 91% Isopropyl, let dry completely. All I use is JB Weld and it works great.

Dittos on the JB Weld...I think the only people that buy that stuff are bow hunters!

QuoteOriginally posted by kevgsp:
jb weld

Yep

Can JB weld be heated for removal easily?

Thank you

Hot melt for me.  And the problem may be you used too much, not too little.  Too much causes air pockets.  And, you need to burn out the release agent that is in all taper holes in field points or broadheads.  Once you do that, a "skin" of hot melt will hold as good as anything, and you can actually take them off with moderate heat.  You won't do that with JB Weld or any other epoxy.  

I shot two broad heads into plywood the other day, and pulled and rocked them out of there with the heads staying intact on the aluminum inserts.  I use hot melt.

I use loctite 2 part 5 min epoxy.Lowes.  It can be burned out but use a mask.

QuoteOriginally posted by George D. Stout:
 

I shot two broad heads into plywood the other day, and pulled and rocked them out of there with the heads staying intact on the aluminum inserts.  I use hot melt. [/QB]

Don't be lying George...  

gmmat,
Make sure your heating the parts up enough that the glue is melting enough to spread and coat equally inside to make a good glue joint (I use a plumber's torch).
And then quinch in water to set up the glue.

I use gorilla glue to install my inserts now, but I still use hot melt to mount bhs on adapters so I can index the blades where I want them, usually 'V' up on 3blades and for 2blades I mount them horizontally.

Just remember to spin check your work when done!

Hot melt stick for me...until someone with more experience shows me what may be better.  I am all ears.

Arts and crafts hot melt readily available in all the stores won't do it..
Ferrule Tight, possibly some other industrial hot melts.
Like Geo said, should hold through heavy extraction yet easy to tune broadheads for a true spin (No 1 cause of broadhead plaining is non aligned broadheads) or easily removable with low enough heat to not take the temper out of steel heads.

Yes, you can use heat to reverse the bond on epoxy. If you want to remove an insert from a broadhead that has been glued up using JB Weld, apply the heat to the insert, NOT the broadhead! If you heat the broadhead enough to get it loose you will ruin the temper. The cleanup with old epoxy is definitely more trouble than with hotmelt, but not that bad. With epoxy you will have plenty of time to get the broadhead aligned for straightness, and I don't care about indexing them, so epoxy is usually my first choice, especially JB Weld or a slow cure marine epoxy. Mostly I just buy the screw-in broadheads and don't have to worry about gluing in the inserts. I'm just lazy I guess.

Allan

Chalk it up to inexperience.  I tried, again...with the hot melt.  This time I heated everything up, good (hot materials and glue....with sufficient amounts of glue), and got a LOT better results.  I'm confident these are fine.  A little trimming of some minor excess, and I'm ready to sharpen and hunt.

This will be my first season going afield with arrows I tuned and built 100% on my own (well....with some sage advice!).  Feels great.

Thanks to all.