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Tru-Oil or Wipe on Poly ?

Started by stagetek, June 09, 2009, 10:07:00 PM

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stagetek

Recently had Bowdoc redo a handle on a 7O's S.K. I was going to get it camo dipped, but can't bring myself to do that. Sanded it down, put some ebony stain on it. Looks great. For those who have used both finishes. Wich do you prefer, and why ?  Thanx.

**DONOTDELETE**

tru-oil.... I like the way you can put it on and the way it brings out the grain of the wood... But that's me.

Bjorn

Tru Oil is more weatherproof than any wipe on poly I have come across and easier to maintain.

Lost Arra

On my selfbows and wood arrows I wipe on an initial coat of Helmsman spar urethane (not the spray) which is more waterproof than regular wipe on poly or tru oil. A brush or foam brush works well for this step.

After a day of drying and 600 sandpaper I follow up with many coats of regular wipe on poly which is easier to apply with a rag without streaks. But I like Tru Oil too. Paste wax to finish up and before any hunt. I think the initial coat of Helmsman and the wax give the most water protection.

jacobsladder

do a number of very thin coats with the tru oil...make sure you seal the wood first if your working with an oily wood.. otherwise the truoil will remain tacky..... I just finished a cocobola riser with tru oil and it came out good...but i decided to buff it down with 0000 steel wool and am going to do the final two coats with the tru oil aerosol spray..hopefully that will give me a more professional look..... helmans spar is great for waterproofing, but will yellow over time... I do think tru oil is a time tested excellent product..theyve used for gunstocks for a long time..
TGMM Family of the Bow

"There's a race of men that dont fit in, A race that can't stay still; So they break the hearts of kith and kin, And they roam the world at will"  Robert Service

Rob DiStefano

i use both products quite a bit in my luthiery work, and both work quite well.  i give a slight edge to the tru-oil in terms of application but the min-wax wipe-on cures a tad faster.  

my personal opinion in answering yer question is that it's a close call and you really should try out both and then make yer decision.
IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

d. ward

Mike I knew it I just knew it.In my true Bear bow loving heart of hearts I knew it was going to happen.I just knew you would have a change of heart.Dang it I was going to email you too before I sent it back and suggest well you know what I do at bowdocs...
Thats pretty neat your going to keep it looking like a Super Kodiak.I wish I would have known that when it was here.I would have sanded the bow out better then I did as I figured the camo dipping would smooth and fill everything.
You should also add a new set of Al's Super Kodiak decals to it while your working her over.
Go with the Birchwood & Casey tru oil gun stock finish.If its good enough for a gun stock it surly is good enough for a bow.Works great on wood and fiberglass both.Just make sure and let it dry 24 hrs inbetween coats.24 hrs later scuff up the first coat and wipe on another coat wait another 24 dring time and do the same thing until you build up the depth of finish you want.Tru oil will shrink in 24 hrs and you will want to apply at least 5-7 coats over 5-7 days and she should be good to go.
Yehaw glad you decided againest the dipping.Nothing personal on dipping bows.I just like Super K's...bowdoc

portugeejn

I'd go with the Tru Oil.  Bowdoc recommended it to me as a finish and a touch-up on a couple old Bear bows I have, and it worked well and was a pretty good match for the original finish (IMHO).

RonP

maineac

I got a recipe from an old gunsmith years ago when I was refinishing an old Belgium sxs.  He used 2/3's boiled linseed and one 1/3 turps.  According to him the turpentine pulled the oil deeper into the wood.  I have redone all my guns over time, and used this formula and never had a problem, no matter how long I was out in the rain with them.  Put the first coat on generously, then let it sit for 24 hours.  Rub it down with a cloth, apply another thin coat.  After several coats you will be good.  Depending on the wood It might take only three coats. A drop or two worked in with fingertips and palm every year or so freshens the stock (or handle in this case).  I also wet sand down to 600 grit to really get the wood smooth and feeling like silk.
The season gave him perfect mornings, hunter's moons and fields of freedom found only by walking them with a predator's stride.
                                                             Robert Holthouser

stagetek

Doc, The minute I saw it, I couldn't get it dipped. Been playing around with ebony stain, and the handle looks great. I'll go with the Tru-oil. Thanx for the responses. And, Doc, I will be sending you a 69 S.K. for the "whole" job !


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