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Help with arrow spine

Started by Tim, May 20, 2009, 08:23:00 PM

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Tim

Hey Folks,

Help me out! I'm trying to tune a bow and my arrows are showing stiff.  Not overly but I know I can find a shaft that flies better.

I've moved my silencers out to weaken the shaft, I've went with a heavier tip and I don't care to leave my arrows longer or shoot a lighter string. Here's what I've got....

Heritage 250: Showing real stiff (a 150 is way weak)

Beeman 400 ICS: Showing stiff but not as much as the 250

Where would a Gold Tip traditional 55-75 fall into the mix in comparison to those to above? (a 35-55 is way weak)

Thanks.......Tim

James Wrenn

The GT is the same as the Beman.You need to add more point weight or use a thiner sideplate to change centershot if you want your arrows a certain length as you have them now.If you can thin your sideplate down to get a hair more centershot all those arrows should work fine as they are.It does not take much to make a big difference.
....Quality deer management means shooting them before they get tough....

JRY309

When I tune carbons for my longbows,arrow length is not a concern of mine.Trying to get a carbon to the length you like can be a hit or miss.I start full length and adjust the dynamic spine by shooting them,trimming the length and or adding more weight up front.Carbons just don't come in as many different spines as wood or aluminum.I had some carbons that were 1" past my draw and showing stiff.So I tried to add more weight to weaken the spine,and they got worse the more weight I added.I believe they were bouncing off the riser instead of flexing around it.I find leaving them longer,I can tune for better flight and by adding weight I increase the overall weight of my arrows.

WESTBROOK

Tim you could try Beman MFX or Axis 400, their skinny and would move you closer to center.

I try to get them tuned at full length/long as possible, then start trimming and adding weight to make up for what you cut off.

But as said above, with carbons you get what you get.

Eric


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