I am tuning some grizzlystik 500s that were pre-cut to 28".  I really got them for my new limbs that I am waiting on (65#).  I decided to play with them with my 52# limbs with a 27" draw, and seem to have them flying great with 250 grain field tips.  I now want to move onto broadheads, but am worried since they seemed to come in when moving from 200 to 250 that they might still be a bit stiff for 250 grain bh's, or to weak.  My best solution seems to be a 175 grain bh, and buying all three weights of steel adapters.  Then I can get that head up to 300 if necessary and down to 250.  Anyone with a better idea?

Start with the same weight as field points and see how they fly. Then change weight that makes them fly Better.. Only way to tune, is By looking to see what it is doing.

This will also help with bareshaft tuning like O.L. has on his Site. Keep them the same for a true Test. Then you can move up in FOC weight / point weight for a well tuned Arrow to Bow match.

some inserts are taper for broad heads so you dont need the adapter... that might help you if can find them 3 rivers carrys sum styles

I have used the same weight broadheads as field points, just made sure the broadheads spun true, they all hit the same place.

I have tried bare shafting them, but the tapered aspect of the shaft causes an extreme nock high strike, that makes it hard to determine the left or right aspect.  That is whhy I think I need to move to bh's.  I just don't want to have to spend a couple of hundred bucks on a variety of bhs.  So i thought if I could find a good starting wieght, I could adjust it with the adapters that allow glue ons to bye used on carbons.

maineac, I shoot tapered shafts and haven't had any problem with nock high when bare-shafting. You might look elsewhere for the nock-high problem. You probably already know that if your nocking point is too low, it will rebound off the shelf and hit nock high?

The reason it seems funny is that the Alums I am shooting bare shaft fine, and the diameter is almost the same.  Not enough to seemingly cause such a nock high reaction. I will try raising the nock point this afternoon.

if you have the right field point wieght then a tru spinning bh would make no difference

Check the outside of your shelf for a mark from the arrow hitting it the shelf, that will make your shaft high.

I lowered the nock point about an 1/8" and it changed the nock high quite a bit.  The bare shaft was still to the right of my usual arrows, the fletched heavy arrow is right with the alums.  I cna't get any heavier field points than the 250, so I have to try bhs.  that is why I thought about the different weights of the screw in adapters to change the bh weight until I can tune it to 250 field which is flying to my old arrows center.

You can add point weight by footing your aluminums with aluminum footing. I had the same problem, I couldnt go heavier field point weight than 250's so I added aluminum footing and my arrows tuned best with 270 on the front. Which depending on the footing material you use, was 1.5-2" applied with hotglue.
Bob