I'm considering purchasing the 10" taper jig for my next white ash shafts. Has anyone calculated the weight loss to the rear with tapering? My intent is to take what is lost and add to the front with woody weights. Also I have thought about dipping the front 10" to further increase the FOC. How much weight might I gain there?  Thanks for any information you provide.

I forget what I figured for weight loss for tapering, but it wasn't too much with cedar.  It can vary quite a bit, depending on wood type, density, shaft diameter and length of taper.  Spine loss in minimal, maybe 1-2 pounds.  A 10" paint crown dip only adds about 5 grains and clear would be less, so you're not gonna gain much up front that way.

I find tapering the fletch end of a shaft to be well worth the effort or cost.  I'd recommend just getting the tapered shafts and adding point weight to get your desired arrow weight.  I think the Woody Weights are going to work pretty well, but be aware that the increase in point length and weight will likely up your spine needs.  Let us know how it all works out.

Thanks Fletcher. Currently I'm shooting 56# at my 29" draw and have 65-70lb spine with 30 3/4" white ash @11/32". 160-200gr. upfront with total weight about 700.  I figured it might be 50-75gr. lost by taper but that's just speculation on my part.

Sitka shafts, spine 35/40, 27", 11" taper.
Lost 13 grains in weight, gained 3% higher FOC.
G R E A T!!

Tapering 11/32 cedars to 5/16 generally reduces shaft weight by about 15-20 grains.  Tapering 23/64 shafts to 5/16 would would take off more.  Regardless, the effect on FOC is fairly small.  Changed mine by about 1 1/2 percent.  2G's results may be due to shorter shaft length.

I was just talking to a guy from Hexshafts and asked that same question and he said the shaft would lose about 30 gr with the taper.

Rick

Yep.  Will vary depending on the thickensss of the shaft to start (11/32 or 23/64) and the material -- cedar, spruce, fir or hardwoods like birch, maple, hickory.  But in any event, it's not a whole lot.

So the taper on it's own may have little impact unless you counter with at least the additional weight upfront. Also does the weakening of spine in the rear as a result of the taper lead to better arrow dynamics? I know.....who cares.

Tapered wood shafts recover from parallax faster, i.e., they straighten out a little faster than parallel shafts.  In short, they fly a little better, but the difference is small.  But that's enough reason for doing it IMO.

Tapering has minimal effect on spine as most bending occurrs in the middle. I like the look and performance of hunting tapered shafting-9 in rear and 5 in front.

Foot the front 12-14" with cocobolo then taper the back POC section. Great FOC!....O.L.

Ted (raptorarchery) has made me some with a 13" footed section-7 1/2" past the splice.
They should be here in a few days...........hope they are still stiff enough.