O.L./Dr. Ashby

Regarding the parallel taper length, 2" vs. 3" ? Does it make much difference?

Unless I'm confusing things:

O.L. has been referring to 3" of parallel taper on the IF, whereas earlier in the thread Dr. Ashby was referring to 2"......

"the critical glue attachment surface area is a total of 3"; that includes the brass insert and the parallel portion of the IF. On my IF's (behind a 100 grain brass insert) I use a 2" parallel glue-attached section of the IF, then parabolic-taper the terminal 5" (on a 7" OAL IF)."

Thanks !!

Sorry this may be an obvious question, but when storing the arrow vertically to provide the glue ring...is this point end up to allow the glue to flow down providing a gradual taper or down, so the epoxy pools against the parallel section of the IF?

Again some fantastic information here, thank you for sharing!

It-m-grow, most is still being asorbed by the arrow but in a way that doesn't cause damage. The difference between diagonal cutters as opposed to wide jawed pliers, a lot of force in a small area as opposed to large.

dcolavito, It's a question of how much is enough> Ed has had good results with 2" and a glue dam and I with 3" and no dam...We'd know what isn't enough, it'd break. Personally I'm going to do mine a minimum of 3" unless I'm trying to get more spine, then I'll do the whole thing longer, taper included.

Matabele, he uses extra glue then points them down. The glue I use won't run so I don't use any more then needed but still cure them point down just in case.  

What an irony...Not many years ago I didn't like carbon shafts cause they produced an over all arrow that was too light. We were shoving weights of all kinds inside from skinny aluminum shafts, to aquarium tubing, to sand!   ..The manufactures stepped up and started making carbon shafts with good mass...Now I want shafts that weigh nothing!    We had the right shafts and didn't know what to do with them....O.L.

Thanks O.L.  !!!

Very helpfull.  You guys are our R&D wing of traditional archery.    

Dave, Ed here.

Regarding the 2" vs 3" glue attachment, what I found in testing was that I needed a MINIMUM of 3" of total glue attachment to the shaft's inner-wall in order to prevent set-back on direct impacts. That's with having a glue dam (glue ring) back of the IF's parallel portion. That 3" MINIMUM includes the length of the brass insert PLUS the area of glue attachment for the IF.

Since all my work has been with the long, 100 grain brass inserts I need a minimum of 2 more inches of attachment on the IF's front. More doesn't hurt, and I use 4" of parallel attachment length on the 9" IF's I sometimes use (depending on what I need for weight and bare shaft tuning).

Just keep the MINIMUM TOTAL length of insert/IF glue attachment to the shaft's wall at 3" or more - and keep the flexable, parabolic tapered portion of the IF a minimum of 5" long for those forceful angular impacts.

Hope that helps,

Ed

This is good stuff...GREAT THREAD!!How much does those carbon  RODS weigh roughly per" ??? Has anyone weighed them??

I for one don't look for a "high" foc.  I put my arrows together to be well balance with the 6 to 7% foc.   They fly like darts and stay within the recommended grains per pound for the bow I shoot. And let me add, not penetration problems here.  That's what works for me.     mr.c

Thanks Doc,Thanks O.L.,

Regarding 2" vs 3", the info from you guys is always helpful!!

(actually sprung loose with some gelt and bought me a drill press !)


 

ttt

Just checking to see if any you guys have done a batch of MFXs or Axis using this method? I thinking of tring sum with the carbon footings, wondering how much weight it adds?

I just made a batch of GoldTips 35/55 for my 50# Widow with a 7" IF.They fly great,took 3 hits from a patioblock and still perfect!! My only complaint is the tickin noise I hear when shot.I put epoxy up the shaft,on the IF,then insert, then slid all in.Has anyone run into this??

ticking noise? thats interesting i guess the IF hitting the inside of the shaft, does it do this with every arrow?

I made one arrow that flies well with the IF of hardwoood a couple of weeks ago and today I've been working on gluing up another 8 of them!  :D

Kind of a sideline but....

This does seem to end the debate of wood vs. Aluminum vs. Carbon since all three materials are used in this arrow build. It seems we have now found the perfect arrow and it requires a combination of all three materials!!!


GREAT THREAD!!!!

Made up 6 of these and the ticking, rattling from
the arrows paradox hitting the wooden insert is
way to noisy for hunting imho.

Yeah I noticed the same thing. Clank.

I made up a set of GT 5575's recently and installed 7" IF's in them.They shoot well and I was surprised that the IF didn't change the tune of the arrow.

They are noisy though,so noisy,I would never hunt with them.They are being relegated to squirrel and stump arrows.I wish I had that to do all over again.

I put a lot of time in those arrows.

I'd like to hear more about this noise issue before I make up some of these.

The Perfect Arrow ... Not So Perfect?

Anyone?

I don't get any noise or"ticking".  I made mine only 5 inches long though.  I will say they are indestructable.  Made up a set for my elk arrows.
Steve