longcut, I don't want to be argumentative but if your knock is to the right when your hitting then that arrow is over spined. I will also bet the your hitting to the left of where you are looking. I bare shaft most of my wood shafts and with a 125 grn. point and a 30.5 shaft I get very good arrow flight out of 55-60's but my bow is not a Bob Lee. Glenn

"I ended up breaking the arrow after the 2nd shot. What is going on?!!"

I hate seeing folks go through this frustration. Tuning wood arrows is no different then any other arrow or from self bows to compounds. You could have absolutly perfect tuning and still bend/break arrows with a poor release. In other words you are "looking" at the wrong indications.

Wood arrows, either do the tuning with wide broadheads or bare shafts at a long distance. That way if they are flying too bad, you simply miss the target and don't break the shafts.

Paper tuning is all but worthless. Eyeballs are worthless. "Looking" good doesn't mean it is. Folks find that out the first time they try to shoot broadheads on arrows they had been shooting all year that "looked" good.

With that length you should be in the ballpark spine wise if not a bit over spined. 60-65's would be closer if cut to 29-30". Use the planning method either with bare shafts or broadheads and you'll get them dialed in.....O.L.

You never said what point weight you were using.

If you fletch up the arrows first and they are to weak, then would you be running a risk of the shaft breaking when you shoot it? I don't know i'm just asking.

they would have to be way under spined to break when shot.


I ignore what the nock end shows but instead focus on where the bare shafts group in relation to fletched ones

3undr, At very close range, you bet. I've bent aluninums at close range fletched! When in doubt a fellow is better off shooting bare shafts at 40 yards then at 10...O.L.

I use this since I forget

cpnhgninget,
I use Ol's method for bare shafting, however to see if in I'm in the ball park I start at 5 yds from the target. Slight nock left/too weak or slight right/ too stiff. The nock pt may also require some adjustment. Once the appropriate adjust have been made and verified, then I will move back to 15 yds and then on to 20 yds. Even after satifying the 20 yd bare shaft tuning. I will recheck my 5 yds. It may not be necessary, however I want to know what my arrow is doing as soon as it leaves the bow. A five yd shot may be presented and I don't want to hit the target side ways, thus losing pentration.