Anyone tried it?  Would it work?  

My thought is to turn a 5 or 6" section of wood arrow shaft so that half of it fits inside the carbon shaft.  The other half would remain the original diameter but taper to the outside diameter of the carbon.  Clear as mud?    :confused:

I have used small pieces of alum to fix woods. So it can be done with Alum shafts.

I would say it will work. Just make sure everything is straight and in line. Good luck with it, post pic's too.

Why? What is the purpose ?

QuoteOriginally posted by Pat B.:
Why? What is the purpose ?

To mount a stone point on a carbon shaft.  My wood shafts are the wrong spine (too weak) and a heavy stone point would make them weaker still.  I do have a bunch of carbon shafts, though...      

I've heard of guys who cut slots in steel adaptors and epoxied stone points in them.  I'd rather use wood, though, if it works...

stumping, if the weakest part of the shaft is replaceable you could break the same one dozens of times,  or hardwood for a tough foc arrow.
im shure their could be some more pat.

Experiments are scheduled for the wood shop tomorrow Woody!  You're thinking of just turning down the portion of the wood shaft that will fit inside the carbon, right?  And then making the rest of it (the part sticking out front) the same diameter as the carbon?  

I'm wondering if there will be enough wood left to cut the slot to accept the stone point, and whether it will be strong enough. Carbons are pretty small diameter.

We will see....

I don't know what wood you are using, but I don't think cedar would be strong enough. The part you turn down would be awful skinny. Maybe if you epoxied a short piece of aluminum arrow over both the carbon and the wood where they join you could make it work. It would be kinda ugly though.

I guess I'd just get stiffer woodies and forego the carbons. Remember when you add the wood and heavy point to the front you are going to make your carbons weaker too.

Whip, the section of foreshaft where the stone point would go would be the full diameter of the wood shaft.  About an inch below the notch for the point, the wood shaft would smoothly taper to the OD of the carbon shaft.  Then there would be two or three inches of the wooden foreshaft turned to the inside diameter of the carbon shaft.  

30coupe, I think you're probably right that cedar wouldn't be strong enough.  I think I'll try, though.     :D     Also have some hardwoods around here to play with.

We want pictures of the results!

Didn't someone do this before? I seem to remember he just plugged the carbon shaft with wood and then cut the slot for the stone point/trade point(?) into both carbon and wood. Then he wrapped it with sinew a little extra behind the cut to strengthen the carbon and make it look neat. Might have been Ferret.
chrisg

doesn't have to be a traditional arrow timber. you could use any hardwood. the more dense and tough the better. the original piece doesn't have to be straight since your turning it. we have plenty of timbers here in oz that would be heaps strong enough even when turned down to the inside diameter of a 5/16" carbon.

It might be stronger if you drilled the wood fore shaft for the carbon to slip into an inch or so and taper the wood down to the carbon at the back. Then wrap the thing with sinew after mounting the point.

What about using a short section of solid fibreglass, rather than wood? You'll still be able to slot the foreshaft for the point, turn down th back for the insert & it'd be a lot tougher than wood.

Just a thought!

WOuld be a good use for a piece of wood arrow footing, A unique look and should be rugged enough. ADs are pretty wide at the front and would work well for this I'd think, Axis not so well.

chrisg, Tippit did something similar with one of his trade points and that worked really well for him.  This will be a similar concept except the wood will extend out beyond the shaft to accept hafting on the stone.  I'm thinking it will work!

Not directly related to the question, but you (knife river) said "heavy stone point".  You might want to weigh your stone points.  I mounted some stone points and trade points to some river cane shafts, and the stone points are surprisingly light.  Most people think stone and think heavy, but they aren't that heavy.  Metal points are heavier unless the stone point is huge.  Just an observation.

Woody is one of the best knappers in the world PastorHunter. He knows his stone.

Here is something I did, it might have been mentioned already, i didnt read all the posts. I just cut a slot in a alluminum Adaptor and hafted the head into it. it worked really well. I took a hog with the one on the far right. These were dont with a Short adaptor and you could probably do it with a long adaptor to get more "Grab".


 

LB III, that's a great idea and it obviously works.  I know zip about metal working, though, and have no tools for it.  And, too, I'm trying to re-use some carbon shafts with lightly mushroomed tips.

PastorHunter, I appreciate your concern.  The points I use go about 250 grains.  When the epoxy and dental floss is added in, they probably total 275 or 285 grains on the front of the arrow.  Yep, they're big.  I sent some to Ted Fry who said they looked more like dart points than arrow points.    

So what you want to do is foreshaft a carbon pretty much like a cane shaft ? Making the foreshaft shouldered to the same OD as the carbon, while trying to pick up some mass weight to increase the FOC balance. I do it on cane shafts, ipe is very strong and high mass, I have some in 5/16" OD that has held up well in arrows and atlatl darts. PM me your mailing adress and I will send you some.