Thanks again to all. Things are getting a bit simpler now. How well does that Loctite gel come off if you have to remove a damaged fletch.
So If I get a straight clamp, I can get right or left wing feathers, (stick to one kind) and go for it. Does buying a used jig pay? There are some for sale in the classified. I also saw some plastic jigs at Cabelas last time I was there. The salesman said they were good since the glue did not stick to them. They were a lot less expensive. Thanks
Sam

Fletch tape, the better mouse trap

For good deals, here and 3rivers

Yes i think it pays for itself many times over. you can get a nice fletching jig very reasonable, you don't need a fancy bitz to start, the components are fairly inexpensive and you can make quality arrows from ramin dowels, or plain your own from square stock. I generally do things as cheap as i can, the one place i slurge though is fletch tape, i used to use duco, and it worked fine, but with the tape i can fletch a dozen arrows in 20 minutes.

Where you at in Illinois?

The initail investment is pretty steep, but after a couple hundred arrows it pays off.  I even fletch for other folks, for cheap.  I enjoy making my arrows from scratch and watching then fly.

Fletch tape and loctite seem to be winning out over fletching glue. So if I don't need a bitz, where do I draw the line? I was at Cabellas and they had plastic fletching jigs which were very reasonable. Like $15 if I remember correctly. Unfortunately, no one in archery that day really knew much so I could not find out much about them. So would they be too cheap?

sam

Pronghorn, I'm in Nauvoo right on the Mississippi. Where are you?

Here's a question. When the feathers come off, they have a white "base" or strip at the bottom where they meet (or used to meet) the shaft. Is that part of the feather or is that the glue?
sam

The arizona e-z fleth is what I think your talking about.  You can't really put helical on the feather with those...they're intended more for the compound world.  You don't have to buy a bitz.  I have a jo-jan and it does just fine.  I got it used for $20.  It's paid for itself several times over. You can use a straight clamp with either wing feathers but you have to make sure you put the 'offset' in the right direction.  For left wing feathers make the arrow rotate clockwise from nock-view. For right wing make the arrow rotate counterclockwise form nock-view.

Every feather's going to have a white 'foamy' base.  When you strip the feathers off an old shaft you have still have to get the glue off the shaft also.  A sharp knife held at a consistent angle makes easy work.

If you go the glue route I can guarantee you'll put too much glue on the first couple times.  Less is more, just make sure it's even.  I actually keep a 'junk' feather on hand.  I'll put a bead of glue on the base of the feather then use an old one to wipe off all the extra glue...there aint much left on there after that but it's plenty.

If you have to choose between a straight clamp and a helical I'd suggest getting the helical.  You don't need both to start with, and either will work but the helical is what you're going to want if you want that 'traditional' look.

Thanks Soilarch. I understand that the helical also puts a spin or rifling on the arrow flight which improves the flight and accuracy, so much desired. Three Rivers Archery recommends the Bohning Pro which is under $30. Anyone ever use one of those. Not sure if this jig can do a helical, however.

sam

Im over on the other side near Gurnee. When you mentioned Cabela's I thought maybe you were over this way.

No, I was on my way back from Michigan with my son who had never been to a Cabelas so we took a little detour