Im getting that itch again. I want to make some more woodies....good ones. Im thinking footed shafts, heavy Bhs....heck I might even try cresting this time.
I shoot a 56# @28 Harold Couch LB.(Cut to center) Im thinking 190 Grizzly el grandes, 29.5 inches, four fletched( natural barred red parabolics) with a bohning signature nock.
My questions are:
What spine being the extreme FOC for my poundage?
Should the nock end be tapered? If so, what are the advantages?
What is the toughest, most desired wooden shaft? I was thinking hardwood or laminated.
To all you woodie experts, thanks in advance.

Hey Jamie, Shawn can probably give you some great advice,he seems to have a knack for spine stuff.

I've been thinking a lot about wood arrows myself lately. I shot them for 20yrs before changing to carbons a few years back. I really miss making them,and the quietness of them out of a bow. The arrows I used to make were as well matched as most factory carbon. But the carbons are hard to beat for toughness!

But if I was to make the ultimate wood arrow....it would be a fairly light, stiff, quick recovering, tapered, probably cedar/doug fir shaft. A short foot at the point end of a heavy hardwood or dymondwood, and  a heavy BH(Wish someone would come out with a 200+ gr. glue on three blade)......a high FOC woodie! And one that will be pretty tough behind the BH because of the foot!

I think it's going to be hard for you to get a high FOC arrow if you start with a hardwood or laminate bud. But they'll sure be tough.

I think I need to starting to research good wood footed shafts    

I have the perfect wood shaft, they are Cedarsmith Selects tapered the last 10"s. They all spine 77#s on the button and they all weigh 535 grains with 145 grain Snuffers. I am gonna shoot them this year. HotHap set me up with these and I crowndipped in yelloe and than 4 dips in poly. These fly perfect from both my RERs. I know they would shoot very well out of Curts new KS and If ya left them a bit long they would fly out of Jamies. i have several cedarsmiths footed with wenge that may work for ya Jamie they are 29.5"s and spine 74#s on the dot. Let me know and I can hook ya up!! Shawn

Hey bud, What does he get for footed shafts?  I used to use his shafts..awesome quality!!

Jamie, how's it going??? hope the bow is working for you, all most time to go hunting here.
  I think any shaft in the 60/65# should shoot good from the bow, i shoot one like yours and it shoots 65# tapered ( 10" ) ramin wood at 291/2" long (i draw 28" ) about 600gr all decked out.
  hope you get blood on it this year, Take care and shoot straight.       Harold


         

Let me give it to ya straight..... If ya got that itch again, maybe you should take a shower.

... mike ...  :D  ...

These are ACME tapered shafts footed in Wenge and some in PH. I also have some done in Osage, Puts lots of weight upfront. With a 190 gn BH weight would be 650 gns total. These shafts are spined at 75#.
I got them done by Ted at raptorarchery.com he is a sponsor here.
My shafts are ACME, which are no longer available, but you could use any good quality Cedar or Doug Fir shaft.

QuoteMy questions are:
What spine being the extreme FOC for my poundage?
Should the nock end be tapered? If so, what are the advantages?
What is the toughest, most desired wooden shaft? I was thinking hardwood or laminated.

EFOC is best achieved with a light shaft and a heavy head.  You will likely need to go up a notch or two in spine.

IMO, yes, the nock end should be tapered.  It quickens recovery, adds to FOC and looks neat.  I believe it shoots and performs better.

Most desired shaft varies with the individual, depending on what they want and expect.  Toughest are the hardwoods, particularly hickory and ash.  Laminated birch and maple are pretty tough, too.

For a high FOC wood arrow, I would start with sitka spruce.  (Hildebrandt's are very good.)  Lighter than cedar on average, stronger and they shoot quite nicely.  Add a heavy point and/or footing to get the FOC you want.  I think you could do pretty well with just a 190 gr point.

Congrats on the Harold Couch bow.  Great bows and not that easy to come by.

Thanks for all the tips guys.
Glad you guys brought up the lighter shaft thing...makes sense hearing it. Curt, when ya gonna come hunt with us up here?
I actually have some spruce shafts for my other set of limbs, and they are still great arrows.
Shawn, those arrows of yours are what started this whole thing. They are works of art. Next time we shoot, I might have to try one of yours.
Mike, its not THAT itch again. LOL.
Harold, the bow is still awesome. Very quiet with either set of limbs. I am so ready to get it bloody...already spotted a few bucks that might it happen. Fletcher is right on about your bows.
For this year, my arrows will be CE Rebels, 100 grain brass insert, footed both ends with 2117, four fletch 4" parabolics and 125 magnus heads.
These arrows fly great-when I do my part.
Just something about woodies though. I love the way carbons perform and take abuse, but it feels like I owe it to my bow to make up some nice woodies for hunting.
Thanks for the tips guys. Keep em coming.

Hey guys, there sure is a lot of arrow building knowledge out there. I'm trying my hand at woodies this year. I ordered a set of laminated burch from Alleganey and they shoot great. I thought I'd try to make some cedar arrows and ordered the tapered shafts from 3rivers. I had spine and bow poundage mixed up in my mind. They don't shoot at all from either of my black widows at 54 & 58lbs. I ordered 50/55's and should have gotten 75/80's I'm told. What's a good instructional book or tape on buiding woodies? I need the basics and info on more advanced stuff like footed shafts and straightning. Help me!!!!!!!!

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