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GrizzlyStiks?

Started by Jeff Sample, September 08, 2008, 01:29:00 PM

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Jeff Sample

I'm a devoted woodie shooter, but sooner or later I'm going to have to switch to carbon shafts, given the increased difficulty getting woodies in the 110#+ spine that I need with just a 125-gr BH. I like a moderately heavy shaft (650-750 gr), but would prefer not to have to glue a hardware store onto the front of the arrow to get it.

The GrizzlyStik Safari, at about 16 gr/inch, looks like what I'm looking for, but at $90 or so for a half dozen shafts, I'd like to get some input from those who have ACTUALLY USED them. Please feel free to PM me with your opinion(s) if you prefer.

Thanks!
Jeff
Give me oysters and beer, for dinner every day of the year and I'll feel fine – Jimmy Buffett

blueline

I got a test kit and am very pleased with what I get out of an alaskan. You will be great with a safari...
Blueline

Mahaska  66" 47 @ 29
Morrison 58" 54 @ 28
Bear grizzly 58" 45@28

Don Batten

Jeff, I have no experience with the safari's, but have tried all the rest. I'd do alot of research before dropping the bucks if I were you. Don
"The older I get, the better I was" Byron Fergenson.

sendero25

Jeff,
I don't have any experience with the Safari, but in the last couple of weeks I finished cutting and tuning my Sitka's. I have a couple of issues with them:
1) After cutting them to my length 28.25", I ruined one trying to get the supplied brass inserts in. I guess the continuous taper got too small too soon, I tried to force it by tapping it with a light rubber mallet before the glue set and the shaft split. Another shaft has the insert seated all of the way in except for about 1/32", not a big deal I guess.

2) They have a "spine side" due to the manufacture process the carbon overlaps one side making it stiffer. Once I found it by rolling the shafts on a flat surface and marking it with chalk, I played around with the cock feather in, up and out, it doesn't matter, I have a noticable "kick" left about 10-15 feet in front of the bow when I shoot.
The kick is there no matter if I shoot 125, 145, 200, or 250 gr heads.
That being said, the "kick" may be my lousy form, but it isn't there with my 2018s or 2016s with any point from 145 to 300.
Mine are fletched with 5" shield feathers.
They do recover from the kick and fly well from there on and enter my target straight and tune with broadheads and field points grouping together.
I'm going to try them this year and see what happens.
Hope this helps a little,
John
"I'm not very smart but I can lift heavy things"

"I'm not as smart as I look"

quotes by my good friend Clay Miller from Valentine, TX

Paul Mattson

If you are wanting a heavy carbon.  Wait for the Grizzly Stik Woodie and Banshee shafts come out.  The 300 size will weigh in at 21 gpi which are rated for bows 70#'s and up.  The price will be around $110.00 for a dozen of shafts.  I am hopeing to have them in any time now.  One more thing, these are parallel shafts.

Scott J. Williams

Jeff,

    I have been a stik fan from the beginning. I don't shoot anywhere near as heavy as you do anymore.  I shoot the Alaskans from the lightest bow I have in my arsenal.  They weigh in at 650grains and I shoot them at 55 pounds.

    I have no problem with tuning, endurance, or accuracy with them.  I have found that, unlike described above, they do not kick off of my tuned bows.  I have been impressed with the accuracy of them, even though in the
straightness, and they vary in weight,  they are much like wood only with a little extra weight.  

    What I have found is, whenever I am having trouble with finding the right "hunting" arrow for any of my traditional bows, the stik is the carbon arrow I always come back to.  

    While I can, and do get the shafts to bare shaft most times.  I will most often go to the Adcock method of tuning, a tuning method that I recommend for these shafts.

    All I can say is this, if there is anyone who is not happy with their Grizzly Stiks, please drop me a line.  I am sure we will be able to stike a deal.  They are just the best carbon arrow I have ever used for hunting.  The second best, IMO are the Arrow Dynamics carbons.  

    While the weave is the best method for construction of a carbon arrow, it's next best feature is the "tappered shaft".  I think the stik has the advantage over the Arrow Dynamic is due to the weave, which is stronger, and the fact that the Dynamic tappers from a parallel to a tapper.

    Jeff I just think you will be pleased with everything about the Stiks, except the cost, and the shinny finish.  The finish can be taken care of with a little steel wool, unfortunately I can not assist with the cost.  Being conservative, I am against subsidies....LOL
Black Widow SAV Recurve 60inch "Ironwood" 62@28
Black Widow PLX longbow 62inch "Osage" 52@26

O.L. Adcock

I've shot all the Stiks at some time or another  and compared to other carbons they are the best IMO. Tuning issues aren't the arrows fault!  :) ....O.L.
---Six NAA/FITA National and World flight records.----

doeboy

AD trad heavies and trad lites, cheaper and they are tuff as nails.

Jeff Sample

Jeff
Give me oysters and beer, for dinner every day of the year and I'll feel fine – Jimmy Buffett

sendero25

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I have a question for Scott J. Williams and Mr Adcock:
Could a nock being too tight cause the "left kick" I described above?
The tunable nocks supplied with the Sitkas seen a little tighter on my serving than my other arrows.
I know a nock which is too tight causes problems, but would it cause a consistent, repeatable problem like my left kick?
Like I stated above, my aluminums fly true and I have used the planing method to tune my arrows.
Thank you,
John
"I'm not very smart but I can lift heavy things"

"I'm not as smart as I look"

quotes by my good friend Clay Miller from Valentine, TX


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