Having trouble getting my heads to stay on my aluminum adapters no matter how much glue I use. When practicing with layered foam target it does fine,but everything else comes right off(have a Snuffer in a piece of foam right now I that haven't had time to dig out).My worry is in case of not having a pass through this fall that I'll end up with razor blades floating around while I'm dressing game.But hot melt is the only thing I know of that I can reheat and adjust to get my heads spinning true.
So what are my options?I know this is a rookie question but I need help    !


THanx,
Ethan

are you using ferrule-tite hot melt

Ethan,
Make sure you REALLY clean both the adapters and inside the ferrule of the broadhead.
If necessary, use a little heat to burn off the machine oil from inside the broadhead ferrule.
Acetone or denatured alcohol have worked well for me.
If you decide on a different type of glue, Goat Tuff makes a de-bonder that works on their Goat Tuff glue if you need to remove the head to adjust them, alot of the glues are heat reversable.
Hope this helps
John

I personaly use a two part epoxy. The one I use is made by Devcon and has about a five minute working time which is plenty long enough to get that head aligned and spinning true.

my buddy used jb weld to glue his wensels to adapters,worked well for him.i like to use 2 ton 2 part epoxy for my woodies.mix it up put on arrow tip put on broadhead and spin balance.let sey up over night before you shoot em..will be rock hard and wont come off..if you want them off just heat up with small propane torch.they will pop off so watch where you point them.[sometimes]

As stated above, you need to de-grease the broadhead and the adapter. You didn't say what kind of hot melt you're using, but the hobby stuff won't work. There are different grades of hot melt at the hardware store, but for now just make sure to use Ferrl-Tite or other archery cement.

Good luck!

I've been using regular sticks of hot melt for years without any problems. The secret is to make sure you clean the inside of the head prior to gluing. I usually heat the inside, and then clean it good with a piece of rag over a tappered insert screwed into a shaft. Then, I take a small piece of sand paper and rap it around the tappered end of a shaft and clean the inside again. After that, I use acetone to finish the job. If you do this, your heads should stay put.

Thanks a bunch guys.I'm embarassed to say I haven't thought to degrease my heads and adapters.I'm probably using hobby stuff as I have millions of sticks of this stuff laying around from all the craft making that went on in this family.I assumed that overall it was all the same(never assume).Does JB weld come loose in heat?(probably another dumb question)


Thanks guys.I love having this site,
Ethan

It is very important to heat the ferral, adaptor and glue all at once.  What I do is heat the adaptor, melt some glue on, and heat up the broadhead ferral and stick 'er on. After sticking it on i like to twist the broadhead in making sure that there is an even amount of hot melt.  And you're set.

Steve

I have always used Ferrule Tite since the early days  and I have NEVER, NEVER, EVER had a point come off an arrow, no matter what I shot it into. Don't know what you are doing wrong but I suspect it has been mentioned above. Good luck with it.

Personally, I don't care for the Ferrule-Tite as well as the regular industrial grade glue sticks from the hardware store.  You have to get the yellow ones, not the clear/white kind like used for crafts.  The darker the glue, the harder it sets up.  Ferrule-Tite is a little too hard in my opinion but it's been around a long time and is the "standard" for glue on tips.  The stuf from the hardware store is a lot cheaper and I think works a bit better as it doesn't get brittle at all.

J-B Weld those heads and they'll not come off..
Cheap and readily available. You can mix a "pea" sized glob at a time, great stuff.. I'm sure with heat it will break free ---- but I don't know how much heat is required..  OTH, I don't want them coming off !

Lots of folk go to great lengths to degrease their points prior to glue-up, not necessary and very time consuming. It is much easier to wrap a piece of sandpaper around a piece tapered shaft or adapter in this case, insert it in the point and turn it a few times. You end up with bare metal inside the point, tap the dust out and you are ready to glue. I use two part 5 minute epoxy and never loose a point.

heat WILL NOT loosen jb weld

I only use Ferrel-Tite. Never had a problem.  

I always clean the inside of the heads with denatured alcohol before applying ANY glue, hot-melt or epoxy.  Works well when gluing my steel inserts into Woodmans.

I heat the inside of the broadhead with a propane torch, melt some Ferrul-Tite and smear a little on the taper, and push the broadhead on firmly while holding it with pliers. Rotate the arrow while pushing to spread the glue, and spin the arrow on its point to check that it's perfectly straight on the shaft. If not, apply a little more heat if necessary (it may have cooled some by now), rotate the head with the pliers, and spin again. Repeat until the head spins true. If the point taper is straight, it will usually work the first time. A broadhead has to be on straight to be accurate.

Hot melt still works for me.  You're doing something wrong if your points are coming off.

2 pot epoxy dont come off ever untill ya heat with a blow tourch

Jeff....you have to take the temper out of the steel to get the critters off with epoxy 8^).  I'll keep the hot melt thank you.