Currently grinding down to my socket dimensions pre cut!

Where I'm leaving it for now, rounding tenon corners over, cutting in half and putting a extremely slight taper on the tenon and ill get to wrapping it back up.

Here's the roughed out tenon still intact

After a mixed day of chores, errands and progress I've got the bow in half and back together again

Looks crazy!  You are a brave man 

Bow is headed for the oven!

Grip and sight window are roughed in and down to final dimensions. Fine sanding and a bit of grip tuning and this bow will be ready for finish.

Have not pulled it apart yet but no movement whatsoever shooting and stringing

Whew thought I really screwed the pooch, I've read about using an amount of thick petroleum paste to line the socket and take up that last bit of space that may cause clicking internally.  Man there is a right amount that's for sure, way too much and it makes it impossible to seat the tenon, a little too much and the two pieces were sliding off during string up.  I wiped both surfaces good and went back to stringing up like it should.  Hope it  stays this way.

What type of material did you use for the socket build up? 

1 inch fiberglass weave and theres a layer of carbon early on in the wrap up with black dyed epoxy keeping it all together.

Quote from: dbeaver on May 13, 2026, 09:19:30 PM1 inch fiberglass weave and theres a layer of carbon early on in the wrap up with black dyed epoxy keeping it all together.

Th3 black epoxy looks cool!

Kirk this shelf cutout I did for the first time on the edge sander drive drum sorta how you demonstrate in one of your videos at the spindle sander. Made quick work of getting through most of the g10 and then I only have to watch sparks fly bandsawing out the g10 shelf for short cuts.

Quote from: dbeaver on May 14, 2026, 07:56:28 AMKirk this shelf cutout I did for the first time on the edge sander drive drum sorta how you demonstrate in one of your videos at the spindle sander. Made quick work of getting through most of the g10 and then I only have to watch sparks fly bandsawing out the g10 shelf for short cuts.

Get a carbide tooth 4TPI blade for your saw and you won't have any sparks.

In due time sir, there was a less than desirable general purpose blade i didnt feel like changing out for one cut! I experimented with a bimetal blade that did alright and was 1/3rd the price of the Lenox trimaster, any other particulars or just 3-4tpi and carbide?

Quote from: dbeaver on May 15, 2026, 06:22:48 AMIn due time sir, there was a less than desirable general purpose blade i didnt feel like changing out for one cut! I experimented with a bimetal blade that did alright and was 1/3rd the price of the Lenox trimaster, any other particulars or just 3-4tpi and carbide?

There is a big difference between a carbide steel blade, and a carbide tip blade. Yes they are expensive, but well worth the price in the long run. I have 2 band saws. A 14" that I keep the carbide tip blade on all the time, and my big 17" saw takes a 133"  blade size and I only use wood cutting blades on that one.

When I first got that big saw I planned to set it up for ripping veneers and not waste so much wood ripping them on the table saw with the wider kerf blade width. I ran the gauntlet with all different types of slicing blades designed for resawing, but it still fought me BIG time. The set up had to be perfect. If I left it set up, and didn't use it for other things I was ok. But then I was changing blades back and forth between wood blades and my carbide tip blade all the time on the 14" saw.

I finally said the hell with this and just kept the carbide tip blade on the little saw, and quit trying to cut veneers on the big one.  I put a smaller 1/2" blade on the big saw I could do radius cuts without ruining the blades and cut my veneers on the table saw with a thin kerf 8" blade on the table saw.

 I sure wish I could run those 7 1/4" thin kerf framing blades on my big table saw and get a full 1.75" cut, but I can get it to raise up high enough. I miss my portable 8" Makita table saw. That one I could rip 2" in very thin strips using a 7.25" blade, with much less waste  going to sawdust.....  Oh well.... They just don't make 10" saw blades with a really thin kerf any more, and the thinnest one out there is an 8" blade.

But having a big 10" table saw with a 5hp motor is quite nice when ripping 100's of lams at a time for tapers and core lams. Takes all the work out of it with a new blade too. I get 144 lams @ .120 thick out of a case of flooring material. I pretty much stay with bamboo and maple cores anymore.  I buy my eastern hard maple at a local hardwood distributor in 10' lengths and am very selective with picking out the straight tight grain materials. 

Both of your bows are looking awesome! Been a little bit busy with work so not able to spend as much time in the shop s I would like but the bow has been sprayed and is curing  I've also spent the curing time to twist up a new string for the bow from some D97 and halo serving. Going to let it keep curing a few days since the last coats were yesterday to be safe. I'll post some pictures later this weekend!

Ive made pretty good progress on mine this weekend between chasing turkeys I was able to get it cleaned up out of the form anr start profiling the limbs.

No luck on the turkeys yet.

Finished profiling limbs and got my riser accents on and prepped for tips.

Tonight I was able to get tip overlays on. Waiting for glue to dry. I will definitely be into the grave period. But should get lots done over the holiday weekend.

Alright gents.  As we move into the grace period, I will start poking you for updates every couple days.  Please be proactive in your posting so I don't have to get on you too much.  Once you finish your bow, please PM me and I will give you further instructions.  Keep up the good work, and let's bring this thing home.