Im a few years into traditional archery. Owned a handful of different bows. ASLs, recurves, and RDs. I've always gravitated towards high gpp arrows to minimize gap and because that's just naturally what works in my mind. I've never had a problem getting a heavy gpp arrow with higher foc to tune out of any bow I have had. Last year I bought a recurve made from a very reputable bowyer. Bow is 58" 45#@28". I draw to about 27". I can get a 28" 600 spine shaft with 250 grain head to fly like a dream. Problem is my gap is like 2 feet and I'm anchoring right under my eye. When I go up in spine to a 500 I cannot for the life of me get an arrow to tune remotely close. I've tried everything in the 8 months I've had this bow. Anyone ever run into a situation like this? Do some bows just not like high gpp arrows?

Quote from: Markoman9 on April 20, 2026, 10:16:59 PMIm a few years into traditional archery. Owned a handful of different bows. ASLs, recurves, and RDs. I've always gravitated towards high gpp arrows to minimize gap and because that's just naturally what works in my mind. I've never had a problem getting a heavy gpp arrow with higher foc to tune out of any bow I have had. Last year I bought a recurve made from a very reputable bowyer. Bow is 58" 45#@28". I draw to about 27". I can get a 28" 600 spine shaft with 250 grain head to fly like a dream. Problem is my gap is like 2 feet and I'm anchoring right under my eye. When I go up in spine to a 500 I cannot for the life of me get an arrow to tune remotely close. I've tried everything in the 8 months I've had this bow. Anyone ever run into a situation like this? Do some bows just not like high gpp arrows?

I think you have that backwards... The 10 gpp arrow is going to fly much flatter than a 15 gpp arrow. also... if you want to tighten up your gap, use longer arrows.

"I've always gravitated towards high gpp arrows to minimize gap."  Maybe that's not what you meant to say, but your ratio is backward.  Low gpp arrows minimize gap.  The heavier the arrow/gpp, the greater the gap, all other things being equal. 

And going up in spine isn't the way to lessen your gap because it requires even more physical/point weight.  If you're 250 grains up front with 600s, you'll probably need 350, maybe more with 500 spine. That should get them to shoot straight, but that will also increase your gap even more. You'll need to go to a lighter arrow, in physical/point weight and spine, (700s with about 150 up front, for example) to reduce your gap.  Just can't have it both ways. 

Kirkill and I must have been responding about the same time.  As he notes, going to  a longer shaft may help reduce your gap because lengthening the shaft weakens its dynamic spine, which in turn requires less point weight.  Of course, the added length off the shaft also narrows the gap.  You'll just have to try it to determine whether it's enough less in your case to make an appreciable difference in your gaps.  if you want to reduce your gaps by a lot, go to a lighter and longer arrow.  Good luck.

Gap maybe wasn't the correct term to use. "Point on" maybe is better term?  Either way I'll try to explain it better.

So at 20 yards with said bow, the 28" 600 spine arrow and 250 point weight, which is the only thing I have ever been able to get to tune out of this bow, I have to hold the point about 24" under where I want to hit. It just doesn't work for me for consistent accuracy.

So I'm trying to get my point on closer by shooting a heavier and longer arrow. But no matter what I do I cannot get another arrow combo to tune out of this bow. I have tried a 500 spine arrow with 250-350 grain heads starting with a full length arrow and cutting a 1/4" off at a time. I have tried different spine arrows, point weights, lengths, and different diameter arrows. I just literally cannot get anything to tune other than the arrow I originally mentioned.

So back to my original question about if anyone has ever experienced a bow that doesn't like high gpp arrows? Or seen where a bow and a shooting style/form is this fussy?

I'm not an expert by any means but of the bows I have or have owned in the past I have never had this much trouble to get an arrow tuned so the point on is manageable in my head for consistent accuracy.

I'll try to answer one question at a time.  "So I'm trying to get my point on closer by shooting a heavier and longer arrow." Seems to me that what you gain by going to a longer arrow, you're losing by its increased weight.  In short, it's a wash.

"...if anyone has ever experienced a bow that doesn't like high gpp arrows?" I've never found a bow I couldn't tune, heavy gpp or otherwise. What's not in tune with your arrows, erratic, inconsistent arrow flight, point of impact, etc.  If you mean by not in tune, it's just impacting too low,(at least lower than you want) that's not a tuning issue, that's an arrow weight issue.

If you describe the arrow flight you're getting, and point of impact, we might be able to offer more focused advice.   

How deep is the shelf cut in your riser? and how are you going about "Tunning" your arrows?

Are you shooting off the shelf? or using an elevated rest?

One thing to remember here... tunning your arrows properly is so the spine matches the amount of energy the bow s transfering to the shaft,  and is flexing properly to bend around the strike area in your riser without having contact. High low point of impact, or your point on sight method has nothing to do with arrow spine, or arrow tuning.

But.....

The weight of the arrow effects the speed of the arrow. The heavier the shaft, the slower it goes, and it drops quicker. The point of impact between 15 and 30 yards is going to be significant.  a lighter weight shaft shoots faster and has a much flatter trajectory. while this can effect your point on yardage, using arrow weight to adjust your point on is not the answer. 

You may want to play with an elevated rest, and possibly using a fixed crawl to get your point on gap tightened up. But typically an elevated rest, and a longer length shaft will do the trick.

Target archers that use a point on reference for aiming often use string walking to adjust their point on exactly where they want it.   

Hunters that shoot with a point on aiming method will often use string nocks to adjust a fixed crawl so their point on is where they want it. arrow length is part of the equation too.

I have never been a gap shooter, without stakes in the ground it will drive you to drinking.

What weight arrow are you wanting?

Why are you wanting such a heavyweight arrow?

What is the draw weight of your bow and what is your draw weight?

What are you going to hunt with this heavy arrow?

I shoot 37&38# longbows. 26" draw 27" 500 spine gold tips with 300 up front. 560 grains.